Grow. Cook. Eat. – Page 34 – Julia Shanks Recovering Chef and Urban Gardener

April 2, 2009

Inspiration from the Blogosphere: Alosha’s Kitchen

Since I started blogging almost a year ago, I've discovered a whole world of food writers and talented home cooks. I stumbled across Melissa's blog, Alosha's Kitchen after she posted a rant about Cook's County (a sibling of Cooks Illustrated).

Melissa just started cooking a few years ago, and I've enjoyed reading about her adventures in the kitchen and how she's developed her own "voice" — learning how to take other people's recipes and make them her own.

And I've been drawing inspiration from her recipes. Most recently, she posted a recipe for mustard and tarragon rubbed chicken with braised leeks. Everything about this sounded delicious… but as I started to organize myself, I began imprinting my own style on the recipe.

First, I used pork instead of chicken. I decided to serve the bread crumbs on the side so they'd stay crispy. And I opted to cooked the leeks separately in butter so that I could better time the individual components. Since the final dish looked a little drab, color-wise, I fried the only thing that had color in my pantry: carrots. I cut them into threads, dusted them with corn starch and fried them with parsley leaves in canola oil [[ the colors are still a bit drab, but they had a wonderful textural contrast to the rest of the dish]]. Here's Melissa's recipe.

This is what I did:
1 pork tenderloin
1 tablespoon each: scallions, parsley tarragon
1 tablespoon olive oil
salt and pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 tablespoon butter
3 leeks, white and light green parts, washed and diced
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 cup panko bread crumbs
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 small shallot, peeled and finely diced
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon
2 teaspoons whole grain mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1 cup chicken stock

Marinate pork with herbs, spices and olive oil for at least one hour or over night.

Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Add leeks. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the leeks are soft and start to brown. About 15 minutes.

In another skillet, melt remaining butter over medium high heat. Add garlic. When garlic starts to brown add bread crumbs. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until bread crumbs begin to toast. Add parsley and cook for 3 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.

Turn oven to 400F. Heat an oven-proof skillet over high heat. Remove pork from marinade and pat dry. Add oil to pan and then pork. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes. Put in the oven and continue cooking for about 5-10 minutes depending on the degree of doneness you desire

Remove pork from pan and let rest. To the pork pan, drain off any excess fat and add shallots. Deglaze the pan with white wine and reduce by half. Add mustard, tarragon, honey and chicken stock and continue cooking until sauce is thick and reduced by half. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
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That week, I also craved a steak and cheese sub after reading this post. I ended up making burgers with roasted peppers instead. As simple and delicious as these were, it was so far out of my normal cooking habits (I rarely roast peppers) and I thank Melissa for inspiring another delicious dinner.

March 31, 2009

Share Your Strength

All across the country, cities organize tasting benefit events as a way to raise money for local charities. My favorite event is Taste of the Nation which supports Share Our Strength.

Never been to a tasting event? Imagine walking into a conventional hall – upon entry you are given a plate and a wine glass. As you walk down the aisles, your favorite chefs await you with samples of their signature dishes. When you get thirsty, someone appears to fill your wine glass with a vast array of reds, whites or beer. Feeling full? Bust a move on the dance floor in the front of the hall. Donating to charity has never been so delicious or intoxicating!

Taste of the Nation, Boston, will be this Thursday, April 2nd at the Hynes Convention Center. Over 75 restaurants will participate including some of my favorites: Upstairs on the Square, EVOO, La Morra and Hamersely's Bistro. Each restaurant sets up a table and their staff will offer samples. In between tables of restaurants are 50 tables of wineries and breweries. And, of course, Pellegrino (Nestle Waters) will be on hand to refresh us.

The VIP reception starts at 5.30pm (general admission is 6.30). It costs a bit more, but to me it's worth it: you get an hour jump on the crowds to taste the best dishes. And the VIPs get access to special champagne and caviar tastings.

Why do I love this event especially? Share Our Strength is my charity of choice, and I have volunteered in some capacity for the last 15 years. Operation Frontline (their direct service program) recruits chefs to go into their local communities to teach about cooking and nutrition to families in danger of hunger and malnutrition. I taught classes for 10 years, and sat on their advisory board.

I especially value non-profits that mobilize communities. Instead of giving hand-outs (which obviously are a very important part of the process) they teach and empower people to help themselves.

Taste of the Nation events are organized all across the US. Find an event in your area… click here.

March 30, 2009

Harbinger of Spring

My dad grew up in the forties and fifties in a small town in western Pennsylvania. Fish came frozen and breaded, and vegetables were canned. When he went to graduate school in Manhattan, he discovered all sorts of new foods. One of them was during a date to a fine French restaurant. His girlfriend ordered artichokes and he followed along. As he watched her eat, pulling back the leaves and daintily nibbling the heart away from the leaves with her teeth , he thought, "This is how a proper woman eats artichokes, surely real men eat the whole leaf." Much to his discomfort, he discovered that real men also eat artichokes by nibbling off the heart from the leaves.

Artichokes grow in warm climates with cool nights: the quintessential spring climate of their native Mediterranean. I've read that they can grow in New England too, but require starting the seeds indoors and full sun when planted outside. Given my ability to start seeds inside and the conditions of my yard, I will leave the growing to others, and purchase them at my favorite green grocer. Look for tightly closed globes — as the leaves start to open the hearts turn bitter and tough.

I typically braise artichokes in olive oil. This tenderizes the heart as well as the inner leaves, and takes away the tart after taste that makes artichokes so hard to pair with wine. Once braised, I'll roast them for a crispy exterior, top them on pizza with St. Andre cheese or mix them in with risotto. This recipe uses a lot of anchovies, which is great if you have an abundance.

Braised artichokes

4 artichokes
1 cup olive oil
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup anchovies
1/2 cup garlic
1/2 cup capers
1/2 cup parsley
salt and pepper to taste

1. Clean artichokes by cutting back tough outer leaves and trimming stem back to the white part. Cut artichokes in half and scoop out the fuzzy choke.

2. In food processor, gently puree anchovies, garlic, capers and parsley.

3. Bring olive oil to a boil in an oven proof pot with caper mixture. Add artichokes and water. Cover with foil and cook in the oven for 45 minutes or until leaves are tender.

March 27, 2009

Million Dollar Recipe: Vanilla Scented Pork

Here it is folks – the one recipe that will impress all your friends.

When I first ventured on my own as a private chef, business was a little slow. To make ends meet, I picked up a few events for other private chefs. On one occasion, after a long night of dinner parties, we all returned to the head chef’s home where he cooked us dinner. He tossed a few extra duck breasts in a bowl with soy sauce, vanilla, garlic and thyme and then roasted them. When the duck skin rendered enough fat, he added a few sliced apples to the pan. The vanilla flavor filled my mouth with its intoxicating aroma.

This marinade has become a staple in my repertoire and amplifies both duck and pork tenderloin. Sometimes, I add a sliver of Tahitian vanilla bean for an added explosion of flavor. Sweet potatoes taste like cotton candy when scooped up with a slice of the meat.

1 pound pork tenderloin
½ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 sprig thyme
2 garlic cloves, smashed
¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 teaspoon plain oil.

Put pork in a bowl with remaining ingredients. Let sit for at least one hour or overnight.

Serve with sweet potato puree and green vegetables. If you're feeling saucy, you can also serve with a port reduction sauce.

March 25, 2009

Garden Updates – First Day of Spring

After a seemingly endless winter, 50 degrees feels downright balmy. I spent much of the weekend in the garden… cleaning up, tilling the soil and planting seeds.

First task: raking the dead leaves off the vegetable beds. Normally, I'd say to leave them on because they mulch the soil and provide nutrients. But I've learned from experience that these particular leaves produce TONS of weeds. So I try to get rid of as much as possible.

Next: till the soil. With all the snow and rain, the soil compacted rather densely. I loosened the soil so that the new vegetable roots could easily grow.

Finally, I planted a bunch of seeds…

In the front garden…
Can you see the spring onions popping up in the front left? In the back on the left, I planted kohlrabi. And on the right, kale and icicle radishes.

In the back on the left…
The lettuces: mizuna, tatsoi and arugula. And yes, I need to paint the back fence. Along the back fence, I propped up some chicken wire. I'll plant the peas along that line and hopefully they will train easily up the fencing.

And in the back on the right…
Can you see all the sage? You just can't kill that stuff! And behind that, the lone brussels sprout plant… a bit droopy but still producing. To the left, I planted some mixed lettuces and more arugula.

March 23, 2009

Wintered Brussels Sprouts

With only a handful of Brussels sprouts still growing on the stalk, I wanted just the right recipe to make the most of this special treat. Having recently come across some great ideas in the food-blogosphere, I opted to deviate from my usual Roasted with Bacon.

I combined two recipes: Brussels Sprout Hash with Caramelized Shallots and Bacon from Evil Chef Mom with Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Balsamic Vinegar from White on Rice Couple.

2 slices bacon, diced
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 brussels sprouts, sliced.
2 tbs. balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper to taste

1. In a medium skillet, add bacon. Cook over low heat until the fat starts to release. Continue cooking until there's about 1 tbs. of rendered fat.
2. Turn heat to high and add shallots. Cook, stirring regularly, until shallots and bacon start to brown. Drain off excess fat.
3. Add brussels sprout leaves. Cook until they turn bright green, about 2 minutes.
4. Deglaze pan with balsamic vinegar. Remove from heat. Season to taste with salt and fresh ground black pepper.

March 20, 2009

Garden Updates – Last Day of Winter

Spring officially starts tomorrow, and I will begin sowing seeds outside for my lettuces, peas and other spring delights. My portable greenhouse will protect my seedlings from a late season snow……. which sadly can happen into mid-April.

After a quick peek in the garden this morning, I discovered winter-tolerant Brussels sprouts. The stalks remained sturdy and in-tact through this brutal winter, though the leaves wilted. The outer leaves have a purple hue, the same shade that tomatillos develop when they are left on the vine to ripen and sweeten. Could these, too, be extra sweet? I only have enough for a small meal, so I'll want to maximize their preparation.

Under a pile of dead leaves and old mulch, tarragon and mint show signs of life. Mint has a reputation for being a hardy perennial, so while I'm happy to see it come back, I'm not surprised. With tarragon, on the other hand, I've been less successful, so I'm especially relieved to see it come back. The parsley nub has a few green leaves, so I'm wondering if that, too, will come back. I had thought it was an annual, but maybe not.

Less exciting is the state of my compost bin. At the end of the season last fall, I shoved most of my garden clipping into the bin. I had hoped that 6 months of the passive method (i.e. not turning the compost pile) would be enough. But, alas, I will need to work it rather vigorously over the next few months if I want to use my own compost to amend the soil of my summer garden.

March 17, 2009

My Favorite Dishes: #8 – Cubanos at the Chez

Long before the paninis became trendy in the US, Cubans were making their own pressed sandwiches. The classic Cuban sandwich layers smoked ham, slow roasted pork, Swiss cheese and pickles, and presses it all between layers of soft white baguettes with a smear of mayonnaise and mustard. And the medianoche, a popular snack for after a long night of clubbing – resembles the traditional Cuban sandwich, but is served on a softer roll with less ham. What Cuba invented, Chez Henri perfected.

Chez Henri is a French-Cuban Bistro outside of Harvard Square in Cambridge, MA. It opened in 1996 and was named one of the country’s best new restaurants by Esquire Magazine. Most of the accolades could be attributed to the original chef, Corinna Mozo whose French Canadian – Cuban heritage inspired the menu’s theme. She also wrote the recipe for the Cuban sandwiches, which have been a mainstay on the bar menu ever since. Corinna moved on long ago, and the restaurant continues to putter along… the main dining room is often half empty but the bar is always packed.

The reason: the management will not allow customers to order the famous Cuban sandwiches in the dining room, only in the bar area. And most people dine at Chez Henri for the “cubanos.” Including me.

Now that you have a brief, albeit opinionated, history of the restaurant, let me tell you about the Cuban sandwich.

This version has all the features of the original, but pumped up. Like the classic, it combines pork and ham, but with a thick layer of each thinly sliced. The pork marinates in a sour orange mojo before its slow roasting; and the smoky ham is sweet and slightly salty. They slather the bread with mayonnaise spiked with chipotles and cilantro. And to pull in the French influence, the meat is topped with melted Gruyere cheese and a blend of cornichon pickles. Before grilling the sandwich over hardwood charcoal, they brush the bread with a blend of butter and whole grain mustard.

They also make a vegetarian version of the sandwich with slices of grilled peppers, eggplant and onions. I typically order two sandwiches, one of each, and share with a friend. With a side of plantain chips and a small green salad, this is definitely one of the top ten dishes in Boston!

I worked at Chez Henri back in their early days, and regularly fixed myself a sandwich before my shift began. Thirteen years later, I’m still loving it!

March 14, 2009

Happy Birthday, Liz!

Most people think of March 14th (3/14) as “Pie Day”… a ~~word~~ food play on the number represented by the Greek letter Pi: 3.14. To me, March 14th is my sister’s birthday. So in her honor, I made a carrot cake.

I used the recipe from the Blue Moon Cookbook. This is one of those old, Junior-League style cookbooks from Montgomery, Alabama. The Blue Moon Inn inspired the cookbook and the recipes. My mom remembers the place as a “private dining room.” It was more like a private club that opened only for special occasions and parties. My mom’s graduation party was there, as was the rehearsal dinner before her wedding to my dad (they just celebrated their 43rd anniversary!). The restaurant closed a few years later, so my sister and I never had a chance to eat there. Nonetheless, we treasure the cookbook. The bread pudding is a staple at our Thanksgiving dinner. And I’ve been making the carrot cake for as long as I can remember.

The book oozes culinary history – from the style of recipes (aspic and spinach ring mold) to the ingredient specifications. The recipe for carrot cake, for example, specifies the brand of oil (Wesson) not the type (vegetable). Other recipes specifically call for Hellman’s mayonnaise, Frito’s Corn Chips and Accent.

Over the years, I’ve tried experimenting with this recipe, but discovered that it’s perfect just the way it is… with one exception: it needs ½ tsp. salt. This year, I made a few other modifications. Halfway into organizing the ingredients, I discovered that I only had 1 cup of oil in the house (and it wasn’t even Wesson, it was the Whole Foods 365 Canola). I knew from past experiments that an all butter substitution created a dense cake, so I melted 1 stick of butter with the oil hoping for a better outcome. And since I was heating the oil anyway, I opted to infuse it with a Tahitian Vanilla bean.

The other modification resulted in trying to use up leftovers rather than shop a second time. The traditional recipe calls for a cream cheese frosting. Since I had sour cream only, I made vanilla butter cream and folded in the sour cream to give it a bright tang.

Happy Birthday, Liz! I love you very much and feel so blessed to have you in my life.

Here’s the original recipe (with the salt addition)…

Blue Moon Carrot Cake

3 cups shredded carrots
1 ½ cups Wesson Oil
2 cups sugar
4 eggs, well beaten
2 cups flour
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cinnamon (I used Vietnamese)
2 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. baking powder
1 cup chopped pecans (I used raisins instead)
3 cups grated carrots

Mix Wesson oil and sugar and beat well. Add eggs. Sift together dry ingredients twice and add pecans (or raisins). Grease and flour 2 – 9” cake pans. Fill pans and bake at 350 degrees F for about 20 minutes. Cool. Remove from pans and ice with the following icing.

1 – 8 oz. package cream cheese
1 stick butter (4 oz)
1 box confectioners’ sugar
1 tsp. vanilla

March 13, 2009

Get ‘Em While They’re Cold!

When my friend Paul opened his last restaurant, he called on all his friends to help on the first night of service. The usual hectic-ness prevailed with the added stress that the gas-services had been interrupted for several hours. Thankfully, his signature dish – Shrimp Shrimp, Cha Cha Cha – required no stove-top cooking. The Maine shrimp he used were so small, they cooked in 30 seconds from the hot water out of the tap!

Maine shrimp, bright pink and cheery, appear in the supermarkets and on menus in New England when the weather is dreariest — the dead of winter. These small creatures, about 60 in a pound, have a creamy sweet texture. In sushi bars, you may see them as "ama-ebi." With a rif on the Japanese ama-ebi, I serve them cold and raw, tossed with cucumbers, scallions and ponzu sauce.

The season ends on March 31, so get them while they're cold!

Ponzu Sauce
(adapted from The Dean and DeLuca Cookbook )
1 cup soy sauce
3/4 cup citrus juice – a combination of lemon, lime and orange
3 tablespoons mirin
1/4 cup bonito flakes
1 – 3 inch square piece of kombu
1/3 cup rice vinegar

Mix everything together. Let sit at room temperature for 24 hours. Strain and store in the refrigerator for as long as you like. Use within 2 months.