A Well-Worn Friend (Recipe: Chicken with Cauliflower)

  Cauliflower1

A clump of pages just fell out from one of my favorite cookbooks.  I can stuff them back in, but I wonder if I should buy a second copy.  I love the well-worn look and feel … testament to its prized stature in my cookbook collection.  But I fear that if I don’t get a back up copy, it might go out of print and I will lose this treasure forever.

The Chinese Kitchen by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo.

Thursday evening the temperatures quickly dropped below freezing. I had been trying to power through my cold for a week, and I had finally succumbed and stayed in bed with a box of tissues and a stack of magazines.  Hunger was setting in.

I knew I had a half head of cauliflower, (flaccid) scallions and ginger in the fridge, and chicken thighs in the freezer.  And as is my usual habit, I pulled The Chinese Kitchen off the shelf.   I knew she had a recipe for cauliflower, so I started thumbing through the pages looking for inspiration.

I let the restorative powers of ginger and chilies work their magic, they cut through the congestion and awakened by my taste-buds.  In Chinese culture, ginger is considered a warming food, and is beneficial when suffering from a cold.  Indeed, I felt warmer and refreshed after dinner.

What’s your favorite cookbook?  Would you buy a second copy to have just in case?

Chicken-cauliflower_02-21_5

Stir Fried Cauliflower with Chicken
Another recipe adapted from The Chinese Kitchen

For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 ½ teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablepoon corn starch
¼ cup chicken broth

8 dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes
1 thick slice of ginger smashed
2 cloves garlic smashed
2 ½ teaspoons salt
½ head cauliflower, core cut out, and cut into florets
¾ pound boneless, skinless chicken thigh meat
2 teaspoons corn starch
¼ cup plain oil
2 teaspoons chopped ginger
2 garlic cloves chopped
1 red jalapeno, sliced
3 scallions, cut into rounds

1.     Mix ingredients for sauce together.  Set aside.
2.    Bring a pot of water to a boil.  Add the hunk of ginger, garlic and 2 teaspoons of salt.  Add the cauliflower and cook for 3 minutes.  Drain. Scoop out and discard the ginger and garlic.
3.    Cut chicken into strips. Toss with remaining salt and corn starch.
4.    Cut stems off of mushrooms and slice thin.
5.    Heat a large skillet or wok.  Add the oil and heat over medium-high flame.
6.    Cook the chicken in the oil, being sure to separate the pieces, for  3 minutes or until they start to lose their pink color.
7.    Remove chicken with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Drain all but 1 tablespoon of the oil.
8.    Return pan to a high heat and add the cauliflower.   Stir fry for a few minutes until it starts to brown.  Add the ginger, garlic and chilies and cook for two minutes more or until it becomes aromatic.
9.    Return the chcikent to the pan and cook for 1 minute more.  Add the sauce and cook until it thickens.  Add some water or chicken stock if necessary.
10.    Garnish with scallions.
 

Julia on Julie & Julia

When I had my business, Interactive Cuisine, I found the best marketing came from securing press coverage. I did a pretty good job over the years and a few newspapers even referred to me as, “The Other Julia.” Since we both lived in Cambridge, my mentors coached me to work this angle.

A few years into my business, I started hearing about The Julia Project. A woman named Julie was cooking her way through Julia Child’s Mastering The Art of French Cooking, blogging about, and she was getting tons of press for it. I’ll admit it, I was a little bitter. I should have been writing that blog! And getting all the press!

Julie Powell’s book, Julie & Julia came out a few years later. I obstinately did not look at it, purchase it, much less read it. But a few months ago, when I had credit at the used book store, I decided to get over myself and read it.

I’m glad I did, because it was a fun read! Perhaps, I can appreciate it more now as a fellow food-blogger. I enjoyed the voice she created and her ability to admit to her foibles and quirks. From a cooking perspective, I appreciate the challenges of cooking classically French. I recall learning many of the recipes and techniques in culinary school, and know that they take practice. I wonder now, 17 years after I started cooking professionally, would I be able to successfully cook through Master the Art of French Cooking?

Did you read the book or follow the blog?

The One Page Cookbook (Recipe: Herb Crusted Tuna)

Over 20 years ago, my father was my first passenger after I got my pilot’s license. It seems only fitting that today he should be my first guest poster. And as he tells it, he taught me everything I know about cooking, and especially plate presentation. Thankfully, I learned to eat artichokes on my own.

I am Julia's father. Although I have written a number of books and magazine articles, this is the first time I have written for a blog. I do so at Julia's invitation.

My subject is a cookbook. I suppose thousands of cookbooks have been written, especially in recent years. But this one is unique. Not only was it specially created for me, but I believe it is different from all the others of the genre. It is known in our house as The One-Page Cookbook.

In response to the ever-increasing demands of Julia's mother for my bolder participation in the preparation of our evening meal, I have with increasing frequency taken to cooking its central feature, usually fish. However, I would often get stuck in the middle. Since one of my daughters is a professional chef, this situation would naturally lead to a frantic telephone call to Cambridge. As often as not, she would be out.

Over time, it became clear that I should think ahead of time about where I was going–or rather how I should proceed–in this culinary adventure. This led to a request for more sustained assistance from Julia.

In response to my request, Julia wrote The One-Page Cookbook on an 8 ½ x 11 piece of typing paper that is now crinkled with heat and spotted (in several colors) but valuable as ever.

In one page, Julia managed to provide recipes for tuna, salmon, codfish, tilapia, snapper and scallops.

The only reason this cookbook has not been published by Random House and distributed more widely is that, unfortunately, there is no money in it.

Here is Julia's recipe for tuna from The One-Page Cookbook:

Season with s&p both sides. Add seafood herb mix. Get steel skillet and utensils (thin spatula, tongs, potholder) ready. Heat pan med hi, cover pan with canola oil. Canola must never smoke. Gently place tuna in hot canola oil. Start with tuna at room temp. Sear each side for two minutes. If oil starts to smoke, remove pan from heat.

The only modification I would make in this recipe is to place at the beginning the direction to begin with tuna at room temperature. I never remember to take the tuna out of the refrigerator in advance. But we're getting used to cold tuna in the middle. It's like seared tuna with sushi inside. Delicious!

Happy Father's Day, Dad! Looking forward to cooking many more meals with you and FOR you.

My New Favorite Book

The flavor bible
Twelve years ago, Karen Page and her husband Andrew Dornenburg published Culinary Artistry. They interviewed hundreds of chefs around the country to learn more about what makes cooking an artistic endeavor. The real value of this book was the middle section that had a listing of “flavor marriages.” In encyclopedic format, they listed ingredients, such as chicken, mushrooms or artichokes, with a list of ingredients and flavors that paired well. The list was by no means exhaustive, but it was a great starting point. I began to make notes in the margins of flavor pairings I thought worked as well but were not on their list. This year, they finished the work that I wanted to… and they published the Flavor Bible. This isn’t so much a cookbook as it is a reference book to stir creativity.

One of the biggest challenges of searching for recipes on-line is that you need to know what you’re looking for. If, let’s say, you want to cook chicken, you will get thousands of recipes in a search results window – a near impossible challenge to sort through all the options. With this book, you can browse the listings for chicken, and see that it pairs well with coconut, galangal and lime, or with garlic, pancetta and sage. From here, you can have a much more productive web search of recipes. Or, if you’re like me, you’ll just make something up with the various ingredients that I now feel confident match each other.

CookThink has tried to capture this sort of brainstorming in a web-based, recipe search engine. But if you still prefer the tangible feel of a book, I highly recommend The Flavor Bible.

Duck, Part 1


Carol from French Laundry at Home cooked her way through the French Laundry Cookbook. Having cooked many recipes from that book, and derived so much inspiration, I was wholey impressed with Carol’s effort. When she finished French Laundry, she began to tackle Alinea. Without any thought, I bought Alinea’s cookbook as well. It arrived last week.

Thumbing through it, I realized it was more a coffee table tome than a book to derive inspiration, much less cook from. The organization of the book, the pictures and the wording or recipe names make it a difficult to figure what the recipes are all about. Carol, I bow to you in admiration. Nonetheless, I decided to try something from it.

First challenge: finding a recipe that didn’t require specialty ingredients or equipment. I opted for Venison Encased in Savory Granola. And then I changed everything… I made duck confit instead of the venison. Instead of making the granola, I served the fried components separately. And I pureed macomber turnips instead of celeriac. But I did make the dried-cherry port sauce. Other than that, it was exactly the same.

The puffed wild rice was a fun novelity, and offered a good textural contrast. Flavor-wise, I don't think it contributed to the dish. Perhaps if I had made the granola as Achatz recommended it would have benefited from the potato shreds and onion rings.

Duck Confit
Duck legs
1 tsp. each cumin, coriander, cinnamon
3/4 tsp. each allspice, dried thyme
¼ tsp. cloves
½ tsp. each cardamom ginger nutmeg
lots of garlic
half a lots of shallots
salt and pepper
duck fat

1. Combine spices.
2. Season duck generously with salt, pepper and spice mix on the flesh side.
3. Press in garlic and shallots.
4. Let sit for 24 hours.
5. Cook duck legs in 250 oven covered in duck fat for 2-3 hours, or until meat is very tender.
6. Store in fat.

Deep Frying
Onion Rings
1 onion, thinly sliced on a mandolin
1 tbs. corn starch
Wild Rice
Potato Shreds, soaked in water to remove starch
Oil for deep frying

1. Heat oil to 450. Add wild rice. It should puff instantly. After 30 seconds, remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on a papper towel and season with salt.
2. Turn oil down to 375. Toss onion slices in corn starch. Fry until crispy, about 5 minutes. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt
3. Fry potato shreds until lightly golden. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

Macomber Turnips
2 turnips
¼ cup cream
Salt, pepper and lemon juice, to taste

1. Peel and cubed turnips. Put in a pot of cold water. Season with salt.
2. Bring water to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until turnips are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
3. Puree turnips with cream. Season with salt pepper and lemon juice.

Port Sauce
1 small shallot diced
1 cup port wine
1 cup chicken or duck stock
Butter
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste.

In a small sauce pan, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Add shallots, and cook for 1-2 minutes or until soft. Add wine and dried cherries, and let it reduce to about 1/4 cup. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil and reduce by ½. Turn heat the heat off, and whisk in butter, 2 tbs. at a time – for a total of 1/4 -1/2 # depending on your taste. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and a small squeeze of lemon juice.

Thanks to David for taking pictures. He blogs about editing food photos here.

General Gau’s Chicken: The Man Behind the Myth

General's-chicken

Jennifer 8. Lee, author of The Fortune Cookie Chronicles
describes Chinese Cuisine in America as “the biggest culinary joke played by one culture on another.” General Gau’s chicken tops that list in that it appears on nearly every Chinese menu in the US as a chef specialty. While the General was real – a soldier from the Hunan region in China – his chicken is wholly an American invention.

The dish varies from restaurant to restaurant, but the theme is consistent: crispy fried chunks of chicken tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce. Despite its inauthentic origins, it’s still a personal favorite. Cookbook

My favorite Chinese cookbook, The Chinese Kitchen by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo features a recipe that continues to receive rave reviews from my dinner guests. The sauce is nicely balanced, not overly sweet, and fragrant with ginger and chilies. My continual challenge – which most restaurants mastered – is frying the chicken nuggets so they stay crunchy after they’ve been tossed in the sauce. The chicken, marinated in egg and corn starch, is dusted with more corn starch just before frying. I’ve experimented with the oil temperature, twice frying and even trying to caramelize the sauce, to no avail.

When I was in China a few years ago on a summer internship from business school, I broke away on several occasions to take cooking lessons. The top technique on my list was learning how to get the crispy chicken nuggets even after they were tossed in sauce. My cooking instructor in Beijing happily obliged me.
Wet-corn-starch

The first secret is in the corn starch. He used “wet” corn starch. To make wet corn starch: combine ½ cup of corn starch with enough water to make a slurry, about ½ cup. Let the mix sit for at least ½ hour until the water and starch separate. Pour off all the excess water. What you’re left with is the wet corn starch. It’s slightly chalky, but dissolves into liquid when you run your fingers through it. It is this mixture that he tossed the chicken cubes in before frying.

The second secret, which really isn’t as critical as the first, is in cooking the sauce. The sauce must be reduced until almost all the water has evaporated. It is then reconstituted with a little oil.

General Gau's Chicken

adapted from Eileen Yen-Fei Lo

4 chicken thighs, cut into cubes
½ teaspoon salt
1 egg
2 tbs dry corn starch
2 ½ tablespoons dark soy sauce
2 tablespoons hoisin
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon white vinegar
1 ½ teaspoons Shao-Hsing Wine
½ cup wet corn starch
3 cups plain oil
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped ginger
8 small dried chilies
1 bunch scallions, cut into rings.

Marinate chicken with salt, egg and corn starch for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the sauce by combining the soy sauce, hoisin, sugar, vinegar and wine.

In a large pot, heat the oil to 350F. Toss the chicken in the wet corn starch and then add to the hot oil. Cook until crispy, about 5 minutes.
Frying-nuggets

While the chicken is frying, heat a large skillet over high heat. Add 1 tbs. of frying oil to the pan. Add ginger, garlic, scallions and chilies and cook until aromatic.

Frying-ginger-and-garlic
When chicken is crispy drain and add to ginger mix. Pour in sauce and reduce.

Adding-sauce
Serve over rice with steamed broccoli.