Lamb Kibbe

Kibbe1
Last week, I was cramming lots of food into the freezer – bags of kale, ice cube trays of herbs, jalapenos – trying to preserve what’s left from my summer garden. As I tried to make room, I unearthed quite a bit from last year’s haul, including a few cryovac bags of lamb.

Food doesn’t necessarily rot in the freezer but it does go bad. Water evaporates causing freezer burn – that off, dried out texture on the outer edge of meat. It won’t harm you to eat, but the meat will be a little dry. The ice crystals that form as a “protective layer” on ice cream? That’s also water evaporation. Food also tends to absorb flavors from the freezer. No matter how vigilant you are about changing the box of baking soda (and let’s be honest, who is?), food will begin to lose its flavor after several months. Sealing food in air-tight bags helps. I’ve eaten food, properly stored, up to two years later that’s been fine.

But I didn’t want to chance saving my prized lamb for another year. I decided to make Kibbe… a Middle Eastern dish of spiced ground lamb mixed with bulgur. I recently had this dish at Rami’s in Brookline (home of amazing shwarma) and it was delicious!

I served the kibbe with a green salad dressed with Kripalu dressing. The sesame seed paste is reminiscent of the tarator sauce so common in Middle Eastern cuisine.

Stuffed Kibbe
1 cup fine bulgur
1 pound ground lamb
¼ tsp. ground allspice
Pinch nutmeg
Pinch cayenne
2 tsp. salt
Black pepper

Stuffing
1 tbs. olive oil
¼ pound ground lamb
½ small onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons pinenuts
Two pinches of allspice
½ teaspoon salt
Black pepper

Oil for Frying

1. Put the bulgur in a bowl and cover it completely with at least two cups of water. Let sit for 15 minutes, or until bulgur is tender.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the stuffing. Season lamb with salt and pepper. Heat a medium skillet over medium high heat. Add olive oil and onions. Cook for 4minutes or until onions soften and lightly brown. Add pinenuts and cook for 2 minutes, or until they toast lightly. Add the lamb and stir, breaking up the lamb, cooking until it is cooked through. Season with allspice. Let cool in the refrigerator.

3. Drain the bulgur and squeeze out any excess water. Mix the bulgur with the remaining ingredients. Divide the mix into 12 balls.

4. Flatten out each ball, and fill with about 1 tbs. of the filling. Fold the raw meat around the filling and form it into a football shape.
Kibbe-stuffing
5. Heat about 1 inch of oil in a skillet over medium high heat. Fry the kibbe until brown all sides, about 7 minutes. Drain on a paper towel.

Ms. Misinformation

Jalapenos
I always thought that red peppers were merely ripened green peppers; true for both bell and chilies. All summer, I watched my jalapeno plant grow, and waited and waited for them to turn red. After a while, I stopped checking. The green foliage and peppers began to blend in with the border plantings.

When I was in the garden yesterday, checking in on the kale and salad greens, I spied the drooping plant, weighted down with a dozen green peppers. With evening temperatures already dipping into the 30s and 40s, any chance of a red pepper was lost. I snapped off the peppers to salvage what I could. But I wondered if the recent cool temperatures sucked out the heat from the chilies, as rumor had it? I cut one in half, nibbled gingerly on a seed, and confirmed that, in fact, they were still piquant.

To preserve the chilies for the winter, I sliced them into rings, smoked them on the charcoal grill and then packed them in oil in ice cube trays. They add a nice, smoky undertone to many recipes. Sometimes, if I’m feeling sassy, I pop popcorn in a “cube” of smoked chilies. This makes an extremely addictive and thoroughly satifying snack.
Jalapenos-smoked
So to recap my misinformation:
– Not all peppers turn red when ripe.
– Chilies don’t lose their heat in cold temperatures.

And here’s some correct information about chilies: most of their heat is in the white membranes and seeds. To lessen the heat of peppers, cut these parts out.

Finger Lickin’ Good (Recipe: Korean Fried Chicken)

Fried-chic1
I went to bed last night stuffed to the gills, but also a little giddy about the left-overs I’d have for lunch today. Dinner was that good!

How could I have not loved it? It was fried chicken, after all. And my love affair with fried chicken – from Popeyes to General Gau’s – is well documented. The recipe came from a recent article in the New York Times about fried chicken that showcased variations of the classic Southern as well as a Korean version.

I didn’t have the Korean chili paste that the recipe called for. But with a little research, I discovered that it is a spicy bean paste. I had sriracha (Thai Chili Paste) and sweet bean sauce (a Chinese condiment), and blended the two. I used my homemade ketchup which had a nice balance of warm spice.

I’ve struggled over the years to get my general gau’s chicken to stay crispy after it’s been tossed in the sauce. Only once did I achieve that. With this recipe, the chicken is tossed in a mix of corn starch *and* wheat flour. This made a huge difference in crisp-maintenance.

Traditional Fried Chicken is often served with cole slaw. Inspired by Cooking with Amy’s recipe for raw Brussels sprouts, I made an Asian flavored slaw with shredded brussels sprouts.

Korean Fried Chicken
Adapted from Quick and Easy Korean Cooking by Cecilia Hae-Jin Lee

Time: 30 minutes, plus one hour’s marinating

1 small yellow onion, peeled and coarsely grated
3 cloves garlic, minced
6 scallions, cut into rings
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for coating
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, plus more for coating
8 to 10 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, quartered
3 tablespoons Korean chili paste (gojuchang), or a blend of Chinese Bean Sauce and Sriracha
3 tablespoons ketchup
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, more for garnish
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Oil for deep frying
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2/3 cup cornstarch

1. In a medium-size bowl, combine grated onion, garlic, 1/2 of the scallions, salt and pepper. Add chicken and toss to coat well. Cover and set aside to marinate for about 1 hour.

2. In a large bowl, stir together chili paste, ketchup, sugar, sesame seeds and lemon juice. Taste and adjust flavors to get a spicy-sweet-tangy finish. Set aside.

3. Pour oil into a large heavy pot to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Heat to 350 degrees. Combine flour and cornstarch in a shallow bowl and season with salt and pepper.

4. Working in batches to avoid crowding, lift chicken from marinade, dredge lightly in seasoned flour and cornstarch, gently drop into oil and fry for 5 to 7 minutes, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining chicken, checking oil temperature between batches.
Chic-frying
5. When all pieces are done, increase oil temperature to 375 degrees and refry in batches for 30 to 60 seconds, until very crisp. Drain once more on paper towels. While chicken is still hot, brush thickly with chili sauce. Serve hot, sprinkled with sesame seeds and scallions.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Happy Food (Recipe: Crispy Chicken Livers with BBQ Sauce)

Livers2

Maybe it’s a Jewish thing, but I love chicken livers (think: chopped liver on a bagel…mmmm!). Most Americans don’t like them, or any organ meat for that matter. I’ve always been confounded by this – where people draw the line that they’ll eat certain parts of the animal, but not others. It seems random to me. After all, the animal has been sacrificed, we should enjoy it all! But I digress….

I consider liver “happy” food. Yes, it’s weighted with fat and cholesterol, but it’s also jam-packed with iron, vitamin A and all the B-vitamins – those that boost energy and fight depression.

I don’t often see chicken livers at the market (or rather, I don’t see them more than one day before they expire). When I do, I snatch them up.

East Coast Grill pairs grilled chicken livers with “sweet and sour bacon greens” and a chipotle barbecue sauce. I decide to make a variation of this with the kale in my garden and a sweet potato from the market. The ketchup I made at the end of the summer morphed into barbecue sauce with the addition of a little chili paste.

Fried Chicken Livers with Garlic-Chili Greens and BBQ Sauce

½ cup ketchup, preferably homemade
1 tbs. lemon juice
1 chipotle chili minced (more or less to taste)
1 tbs. olive oil
4 cloves garlic, chopped
½ tsp. chili flakes (more or less to taste)
1 bunch Tuscan kale, finely sliced
½ tbs. red wine vinegar
½ pound chicken livers
2 tbs. flour
2 tbs. corn starch
3 tbs. plain oil
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Combine ketchup, lemon juice and chipotle. Set aside.
2. In a large skillet, heat olive oil. When hot, add garlic and cook until lightly golden. Add greens and chili flakes. Cook, stirring frequently, until greens are wilted and tender, about 3 minutes. Add vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
3. Drain chicken livers on a paper towel. Season with salt and pepper on all sides.
4. Combine flour and corn starch in a bowl. Add salt and pepper. Toss chicken livers in flour mixture to thoroughly coat.
5. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add plain oil. Add livers and cook over high heat for 3 minutes. Turn over, and cook for three minutes more.

Serve chicken livers with wilted greens and barbecue sauce. To make it a complete meal, serve with sweet potato puree.

 

Garden Burgers

I grocery shop at least 4 times a week; a pound of coffee here, a quart of milk there. Given that the Whole Foods is only 2 blocks from my house, I never plan my meals and provisions too far in advance. It’s much easier to shop one meal at a time because I know exactly what I need. Better still, I waste much less food.

By now, most of the Whole Foods staff knows me by face, if not by name. And they must think I have the most miserable diet. Aside from a bit of fruit and a random vegetable or two, my shopping cart is mostly filled with meats and starches. Why buy vegetables when I have a garden brimming with kale, lettuce, leeks, Brussels sprouts and celery?

Yesterday, I made garden burgers. No, not vegetarian patties. But meat patties topped with condiments from the garden. I purchased the ground meat at Whole Foods, and topped it with scallions (instead of onions), arugula in place of lettuce, and ketchup I made last month from the bumper crop of tomatoes. Since I don’t grow potatoes for French fries or cabbage for cole slaw, I just sautéed some kale as a side to the burger.

Total Cost: Meat: $2.25, Bun: .25, Cheese Slice: $.25
Taste: Priceless.

Homemade Ketchup
4 cups diced tomatoes or 1 (28-to 32-ounces) can whole tomatoes in juice
1 tbs. plain oil
1 medium onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Pinch cayenne
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 tsp. salt

Purée tomatoes with juice in a blender until smooth.

Heat a stainless steel sauce pot (do not use aluminum because of the high acidity), over medium heat. Add oil, onions and garlic. Stir occassionaly, and cook for about 10 minutes, or until soft and lightly gold. Add spices and cook for one minute just to help them release their fragrance. Add the remaining ingredients. Turn heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the ketchup is very thick. Let chill.

Purée ketchup in blender until smooth. Will keep for several months in the refrigerator.

Before the First Frost (Recipe: Raspberry Vinaigrette)

The weather forecast predicts near freezing temperatures tonight. I ran into the garden and made a last ditch effort to salvage what’s left of summer.

I picked a gallon of basil leaves.
Since I can’t possibly consume all of that in one week (when it would go bad), I pureed it with a little olive oil and spooned it into ice cube trays.
It’s a little depressing… first, I only got 1 ½ trays out of what seemed like a huge harvest. Second, it turned a dingy green. I recall this happening last year and I had hoped to avoid that with the oil. No luck. On the bright side, I know that pureeing it with spinach when I need it will bring back the vivid green. And if I stir it into a tomato sauce, no one will notice anyway.

The raspberries bush started producing again after Labor Day. I always think of berries as hot weather fruit, but this plant likes the cool of June, and then doesn’t produce again until September. Today, I picked enough to fill a 6 ounce ramekin.

If I wanted an appreciable raspberry harvest, I would let the plant creep further out from its northeast corner. But I want space for other crops (and a few flowers), so I keep the plant small. As a result, I never get more than a fistful of berries at a time – just enough for a snack, a garnish for pancakes or dessert, or a cocktail. But as the lettuces are just coming into full swing, I think raspberry vinaigrette is in order. The bright red will be preserved and will contrast beautifully with the green lettuce leaves (and perhaps bright white goat cheese).

The leeks are approaching supermarket size. I harvested a few today, but still have plenty more coming in. Leeks are a variety of onion, common in French cooking. They’re used to flavor soups and stocks. The French steam them, and serve them cold with vinaigrette as a little first course.

My favorite preparation is simply sautéed in butter, perhaps with a sprinkling of fresh thyme. They make a wonderful side to roast chicken or pork.

As much as I love “melting leeks,” I’m looking for new ideas to showcase them. What’s your favorite preparation for leeks?

Raspberry Vinaigrette
½ cup fresh raspberries
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tbs. raspberry, sherry or red wine vinegar
½ tsp. fresh thyme
1 tsp. sugar or honey
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine ingredients in a blender. Puree until smooth. Adjust season to taste with either more salt, sugar, oil or vinegar. Will keep up to a month in the refrigerator.

Sprouting Brussels Sprouts

Every year, I grow Brussels sprouts. The first time I saw a stalk of Brussels sprouts at the farmers' market, I was intrigued… I’ve always enjoyed eating them, and decided that such a beautiful plant deserved coveted real estate in my garden.

Indeed, when planning my garden, I factor in many things: what will the yield be per square foot, how much money will I save, how much better will it taste for being home-grown? Brussels sprouts barely merit growing for these reasons, but the sheer novelty of the plant warrants space.

In past years, my sprouts have never achieved “supermarket size.” Is it because I crowd the plants, constricting the root growth and hence the plant – limiting the amount of nutrients the roots can suck up from the soil? Or perhaps, I need to lop off the top to push the nutrients back down into the budding sprouts.

This year I did both. I measured precisely 36 inches between each plant. And last week, after I cleared away all the remaining tomato plants, I cut off the top tuft of leaves. I’m wondering, should I also strip away the leaves, giving the buds more room to grow?

I know the brussels sprouts will taste sweeter after the first frost, but some of the buds are sprouting open. If I don’t harvest them now, I won’t have any to eat, sweet or not.

A little nibble at the leaves tells me they’re still a little bitter, so I roasted them with sweet potatoes and bacon to balance the flavors.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Sage

1 slice bacon
1 sweet potato
Handful of brussels sprouts, cut in half
1 tbs. olive oil.
Salt and pepper
Fried Sage

1. Dice bacon. Put in an ovenproof dish and into a 425 oven.
2. Meanwhile, peel and cubed sweet potatoes.
3. Toss sweet potatoes with bacon, season with salt and pepper, and return to oven. Roast until browned and soft.
4. In a separate pan, toss Brussels sprouts with olive oil, slat and pepper. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes, or until tender and caramelized on the bottom.
5. Mix the two together. Garnish with fried sage.

Foraging for Mushrooms (Recipe: Cognac Scented Mushrooms)

My first job out of cooking school was at Restaurant Nora in Washington DC (it was there that I cooked for newly elected President Clinton). We offered a variety of mushrooms on the menu, but always distinguished between “exotic” and “wild”. While the shiitakes were considered exotic for their Asian origins, they were actually cultivated on oak logs, and not grown in the wild. By now, they aren’t even considered exotic.

The cool wet weather of autumn has arrived. With it comes beautiful foliage and earthy mushrooms. I love the variety of fall mushrooms – chanterelles, hen of the woods, porcini — each with a different texture and flavor. One of the reasons these mushrooms are so special is that they cannot be cultivated like the ubiquitous shiitake and portobellos.

Foraging for mushrooms can be a dicey proposition. Not all mushrooms are edible, and many prized varieties, like the porcini, have a bitter or poisonous sibling. Local mycology groups offer hikes to forage for mushrooms with guides that help with identification. Unless I'm out with my friend Brett, I leave the foraging to the experts and purchase mushrooms at the market. As much as I love growing my own vegetables, fishing for seafood and hunting for meat, I'm a ninny when it comes to mushrooms.

My favorite meal to ring in fall is roast chicken with roast parsnips and carrots with creamed mushrooms on top. The colors are drab, but the mushrooms make the dish sing.

Cognac Scented Mushrooms
1 tbs. butter
1 1/2 lb. mushrooms, assorted, sliced or diced
2 tbs. chopped shallots
1 tbs. sliced garlic
2 tbs. cognac
1 cup cream
2 tsp. whole grain mustard
1/2 bunch thyme

Heat a large skillet over a medium-high heat and add butter. Sauté mushroom, garlic and shallots without stirring for 5 minutes, or until mushrooms start to caramelize. Add cognac, and reduce before adding the cream and 2 tsp. chopped thyme. Reduce cream by half. Stir in mustard. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Seed a New Economy

By now, most of you have heard of the Slow Food Movement.

Slow Food International was started in opposition to fast food, specifically, to a McDonald’s opening in Italy. The founders feared that the everyday pleasures of an artisanal cheese or cask aged balsamic vinegar would vanish if we did not step in to preserve food heritage.

The beauty of slow food is that it preserves the land and environment. Food is produced the way it has been for a millennium — sustainably with respect for the land so that it may continue to produce food for generations. This contrasts commercial agriculture which pumps chemical fertilizers and insecticides into the soil so that vegetables grow faster and bigger (and less flavorful). And the by-product are a dead-zone in the Gulf of Mexico caused by the run-off of chemicals, and soil that needs more and more chemicals to maintain its fertility.

Slow Food may seem more expensive. At the grocery store it is, but in reality it’s actually cheaper. Because slow food does not receive the government subsidies that commercial agriculture does — the subsidies that keep the price of corn artificially low, which in turn keeps the food cost low. We still pay for the higher cost of “com-ag,” but hidden in our tax burden, instead of transparently at the grocery store.

Slow Money is an off-shoot of Slow Food. A few weeks ago, I participated in the inaugural national gathering of the Slow Money Alliance in Santa Fe, NM, and I am extremely excited about the opportunity for this new organization to have major impact on our food system and our economy.

Slow Money is a non-profit dedicated to steering new sources of capital to local food systems, empowering individual investors to reconnect with their local economies and building an entirely new financial sector – sometimes called nurture capital or patient capital. Rather than waiting for government to realign its priorities when it comes to food, this gathering of over 450 people met to ensure we can financially support slow food. As the founder, Woody Tasch put it, “Investing as if food, farms and fertility mattered.”

The principals of Slow Money are inspiring:

In order to enhance food safety and food security; promote cultural and ecological health and diversity; and, accelerate the transition from an economy based on extraction and consumption to an economy based on preservation and restoration, we do hereby affirm the following Principles:

I. We must bring money back down to earth.

II. There is such a thing as money that is too fast, companies that are too big, finance that is too complex. Therefore, we must slow our money down — not all of it, of course, but enough to matter.

III. The 20th Century economy was an economy of Buy Low/Sell High and Wealth Now/Philanthropy Later—what one venture capitalist called “the largest legal accumulation of wealth in history.” The 21st Century economy will usher in the era of nurture capital, built around principles of carrying capacity, care of the commons, sense of place and non-violence.

IV. We must learn to invest as if food, farms and fertility mattered. We must steer major new sources of capital to small food enterprises.

V. Let us celebrate the new generation of entrepreneurs, consumers and investors who are showing the way from Making A Killing to Making a Living.

VI. Paul Newman said, “I just happen to think that in life we need to be a little like the farmer who puts back into the soil what he takes out.” Recognizing the wisdom of these words, let us begin rebuilding our economy from the ground up, asking:
• What would the world be like if we invested 50% of our assets within 50 miles of where we live?
• What if there was a new generation of companies that gave away 50% of their profits?
• What if there were 50% more organic matter in our soil 50 years from now?

With our support, Slow Money can jump towards its ultimate goal of one million signatures for the Slow Money Principles, on our way to building a Slow Money Alliance that steers tens of millions of dollars a year of creative financing to local food systems.

Please join me in pledging to donate $5 to the Slow Money Alliance on October 6th. Do so here.

can a grassroots movement seed a new economy? FriendsOfSlowMoney.com

The Last Breath of Summer (Recipe: Tod Mun)

Tod-mum
Last week, a friend came over for dinner. Immediately when he walked in, he complained that the house was too cold, and could we please turn on the heat. He was right – the windows were wide open, outside temperatures were hovering in the low 50’s and inside wasn’t much warmer.

Normally, I’m more accommodating of friends’ requests, but on this evening I knew that closing the windows meant summer was over. And I wasn’t ready for that admission.

I acquiesced.

The garden has also succumbed to autumn. The blight finally overcame the tomatoes. And the cucumbers stopped growing just shy of being sweet.

With the last tomato, I indulged in a simple tomato-mayo sandwich.

With the last sweet cucumber, I made a relish to accompany spicy Thai Tod Mun. These fish cakes get their heat from red curry and brightness from kaffir lime leaves. They give warmth to summer’s last breath and welcome in the fall.

Thai Style Fish Cakes
1 lb. 2 oz. white fish filets, minced (use food processor if necessary)
5 tbs. red curry paste (more or less to taste)
4 tbs. fish sauce
1 egg, beaten
8 tbs. tapioca flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tbs. palm sugar or brown sugar
10 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced, stems discarded
8 Chinese long beans or string beans, thinly sliced

Oil for frying

Sauce
6 tbs. water
6 tbs. sugar
1 tbs. chilli powder
2 tbs. roasted peanuts – chopped
2 tbs. cucumber, thinly sliced
½ cup chopped cilantro

1. Make dipping sauce: put water, sugar and vinegar into a pan, bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and add chilli powder and cucumbers. Garnish with cilantro

2. Mix ingredients for fish cakes together in a bowl until thoroughly combined. Form into cakes.

3. Fry fish cakes in medium hot oil until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towel. Serve while still hot with sauce.