Food Consulting

An archive of articles from Julia Shanks Food Consulting Monthly Newsletter

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Benchmarking (July 2010)

Business Trends: Hyper-Local Foods (July 2010)

Culinary Incubator (June 2010)

Local Food Systems (June 2010)

Financing Your Business (August 2010)

Sustainable Seafood (August 2010)

Case Study: Managing Food Costs (September 2010)

Sales and Promotion (September 2010)

Social Media for Food Businesses (October 2010)

Creating Financial Statements (October 2010)

Working Together: Farmers and Chefs (December 2010)

Measuring Success (January 2011)

Streamline and Standardize (January 2011)

Creating a Marketing Plan to Increase Sales (February 2011)

Inventory Management (March 2011)

Getting Started: Writing a Marketing Plan (March 2011)

Allocating Expenses (April 2011)

Planning for Design (April 2011)

Marketing Your Menu (May2011) 

Cross Promotion (July 2011)

 

The Economics of Living in the City

I ran into the convenience store the other day to use the ATM. I noticed one of my neighbors picking up a gallon of milk and a dozen eggs. I was baffled to see anyone buy milk there when the Whole Foods Market was just a block away. I had always believed that groceries at the convenience store are more expensive than the supermarket.

As surprised as I was to see this in my neighborhood – with a Whole Foods and Shaw’s Supermarket less than a ½ mile from affordable housing complexes, it got me thinking of the economics of living below the poverty line, when a large grocery store nearby is not an option. Life is more expensive when you have less money. Let me give you a few examples.

If you do not own a car (because you cannot afford it), then you likely rely on public transportation to get to work. The commute can be doubled… cutting into the time that someone might otherwise get a second job, work longer hours at the first job, or even take a course to get a higher paying job. In essence, your earning potential is reduced because of the time spent commuting.

If you have limited income with children, childcare becomes a huge issue. My longtime assistant has a son with sickle-cell anemia. She could not maintain a regular job because she had no one to care for her son when he got sick, which was unfortunately too frequent.

If your income is below a certain level, it’s harder and more expensive to borrow money. When financing a car purchase, for example, (as many people at all income levels do), you will get a higher interest rate, and therefore higher payments. The less you can afford, the more you have to pay. Ironic, isn’t it?

And given the financial and time challenges, going back to school to get skills that would enable you to get a higher paying job is even more difficult.

For many low income, urban dwellers, the corner market is a primary source for groceries. Though reputed to be more expensive than the big chain supermarkets, if you don’t have a car to drive to a larger store, it can be the only option.

Where I live in Cambridge, there are plenty of larger grocery stores within walking distance to all levels of housing. Given the proximity of these larger grocery stores to the low-income housing, I wonder the efficacy of this theory.

To give you a sense of my neighborhood… Prospect Street separates the “high rent” neighborhoods from the “low rent”. I live one block into the low rent side. Just a few blocks away, on the high rent side of Prospect Street is the Whole Foods… One half mile down the road is a Shaw’s – the “conventional” supermarket chain of New England. In between are two public/affordable housing communities and several convenience stores (like Tedeschi where I used the ATM) and also a few small ethnic grocers.

I wanted to know… are the markets closer to affordable housing more expensive than the supermarkets several blocks farther away? On a rainy Monday afternoon, I criss-crossed my neighborhood to check prices on a sample market basket of eggs, milk, tomatoes and spaghetti.

Prices are based on the least expensive option in that category. With the tomatoes, packaging varied, so I converted all into a per pound price.


Whole Foods
Distance to Affordable Housing #1: less than 1/10 of a mile
Distance to Affordable Housing #2: ½ mile.

Eggs: $2.69/dozen
Tomatoes: $1.99/pound
Whole Milk: $3.29/gallon
Spaghetti: $2.69/pound

Total Market-basket: $10.66

Tedeschi
Distance to Affordable Housing #1: 240 feet
Distance to Affordable Housing #2: less than ½ mile.

Eggs: $2.70/dozen
Tomatoes: $3.40/pound
Whole Milk: $4.99/gallon
Spaghetti: $1.99/pound

Total Market-basket: $13.08

Haitian Grocer
Distance to Affordable Housing #1: 3/10 mile
Distance to Affordable Housing #2: 2/10 mile
.

Unlike Tedeschi, or other convenience stores, this really had a broad selection of fresh produce and dried goods for a small space – including spices, condiments, paper products and cleaning supplies. They even carried frozen fish. It seemed like someone could do a full grocery shopping here, unlike the Tedeschi’s which carried a very limited selection

Eggs: $1.99/dozen
Tomatoes: $1.99/pound
Whole Milk: $4.29/gallon
Spaghetti: $1.39/pound

Total Market-basket: $9.66


Newtowne Market:

Distance to Affordable Housing #1: 4/10 mile
Distance to Affordable Housing #2: across the street

This resembled more of a convenience store than a small grocer, with a very limited selection of produce – only tomatoes, peppers, iceberg lettuce and celery. There were no prices on any of the produce or dairy products. Only the butter had a price label at $.99/stick or $3.96/pound.

Shaw’s
Distance to Affordable Housing #1: .6 miles
Distance to Affordable Housing #2: less than ½ mile

Eggs: $1.99/dozen (as a side note, if you want to compare the price of cage-free eggs, they were 3.69/dozen – one dollar more than Whole Foods)
Tomatoes: $1.99/pound
Whole Milk: $4.69/gallon
Spaghetti: $1.57/pound

Total Market-basket: $10.24

I’m not surprised to see that the Tedeschi’s was significantly more expensive (though I wonder why anyone would shop there). But I was surprised to see how similar the prices were at Whole Foods to the other local options. And I’m pleased to see that the small Haitian Grocer with no more than 400 square feet of retail space (maybe smaller) was the most economical. And better still, they had a broad selection and were exceedingly close to affordable housing.


What have you noticed in your city and neighborhoods?

Chinese Garden Cuisine (Recipe: Beef with Eggplant)

Eggplant-beef
In the height of summer, my cooking simplifies. I avoid strong flavors as to savor the natural sweetness of the tomatoes and corn, the crunch of the cucumbers and the licorice flavor of the basil and tarragon. Even New England summer seafood dishes are minimally adorned… lobster salad has little more seasoning that lemon and mayonnaise. Fried clams may be the most complex with the pickle-spiked remoulade sauce.

But after weeks of “simple cooking”, I’m craving Chinese… specifically, my new favorite dish – Cantonese Lobster. As I was preparing my shopping list, I realized that I had all the produce ingredients in the garden – cucumbers, scallions, garlic and ginger (and I even had some eggs from the farm in the fridge).

Cantonese-lobster

In the Chinese style of entertaining, I decided to prepare a second dish – Beef and Eggplant. Again, I had all the ingredients from the garden except the beef.

It was wholly gratifying to shop at the market only for the meats necessary.

Beef with Eggplant

Adapted from The Chinese Kitchen by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo

1/2 pound sirloin steak, cut into strips
1 tsp. ginger
1/2 tsp. gin
1/4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. canola oil
1 tbs. corn starch
2 small eggplants
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. fresh ginger, chopped
2 tsp. fresh garlic chopped
oil for frying
scallions for garnish

Sauce

1 tbs. bean sauce
1/2 cup chicken stock
2 tsp. sugar
2 tbs. oyster sauce
1 tsp. soy sauce

1.  In a large boil, combine the beef, 1 tsp. of ginger, gin, 1/4 tsp. salt,  1 tsp. oil and corn starch.  Let beef marinate for at least 30 minutes.

2.  Cut eggplant into 1/2 inch slices.  toss with 1 tsp. salt.  Let sit for 5 minutes.  Rinse of salt and pat dry eggplant.

3.  Mix together ingredients for sauce and set aside.

4.  In a large skillet, add 1/4 inch of canola oil.  Heat to 350F.  Add eggplant slices and cook until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes.  Drain the eggplant and set aside.  Drain oil from the pan except, one tablespoon.  Return pan to heat.  Add the garlic and the ginger and cook for 1 minute or until aromatic.  Add the beef and stir-fry until the meat loses it's pink edges, about 3 minutes.  Add the sauce and cook until it thickens.  Stir in the eggplant to coat with sauce.

5.  Garnish with scallions.

From the garden: garlic, ginger, scallions, cucumbers, eggplant.

Fighting Vampires and Other Evil Spirits

Garlic-harvested

I harvested the first patch of garlic last week. The leaves had begun to whither (from the drought or just part of the life cycle, I’m not sure). And I recall hearing that when this happens they are ready. A gentle tug at the neck yielded nothing, so I grabbed a trowel and began to lift them out from the perimeter – making sure not accidentally spear the bulb.

I know there’s a process for properly curing the bulbs so they store well through the winter. In my excitement, though, of the first 5 bulbs, I didn’t bother to read up on it. I washed the bulbs of residual dirt and trimmed the necks to a 1 inch nub. Even the necks oozed a wonderful garlic aroma.

And then I went to my computer to research how to cure the bulbs. The first thing they tell you is to not trim them until after they’ve cured. Oops. And don’t wash them, either. The idea is to dry the bulbs sufficiently so they don’t sprout too quickly or get moldy. They need to hang in a dry, dark place (away from sunlight and humidity) with good air circulation for 2 – 3 weeks. Thankfully, I have central air-conditioning. With the intense weather we’ve been having lately, I might have otherwise been in trouble. When the stalks have dried out, they’re ready for long term storage.

This was my first attempt at garlic, and all in all, it was wholly successful! At the end of the day, I will have about 20 bulbs and about a pound of scapes. Not a great return on my $26 investment, but if I save the largest bulbs from this year’s harvest, I will have seed for next year, with no further investment.

And a bit of curiosity – I had thought that the hard neck garlic would yield scapes and the soft neck would not. I planted some of each, and either the soft neck did not produce any garlic at all or they looked just like the hard neck with scapes shooting out the center.

As for the “incurable” bulbs, I’m not too worried. I can use those quickly. For the rest, I started braiding them and have them hanging in my kitchen. No doubt they will ward off evil spirits. Along with San Pasqual, the patron saint of the kitchen, I should be all set.

Garlic-and-san-pasqual

Finding My Healthy Weight

Feet_on_scale1236718586Though I weigh about 20 pounds more than I would like, I’ve maintained the same weight for 10 years. I exercise regularly and eat mostly all natural, made from scratch food. My cholesterol and blood pressure are both in a healthy/normal range. For me, this is a healthy weight, and one that I can maintain. My doctor agrees with me.

The other day I was having drinks with a friend and he lamented that he needs to lose 40 pounds. As we talked further about his struggle, he mentioned that his weight has gone up and down those same 40 pounds several times over the last few years. It became clear that, for him, he needs to find a way of eating that he can maintain a comfortable weight; not to diet and then go back to old bad habits of eating.

There are two ways to lose weight: eat less and exercise more. Since I’m not an expert of exercise, I will focus my tips on “eating less.” And by eating less, I really mean: consuming fewer calories. You can still take the same number of bites of food, but if you make smarter choices then you will lose weight and keep it off.

My overarching tips are to make sure you eat 5 servings of fruits and vegetables, and get plenty of whole grains to ensure you’re getting a healthy amount of fiber. Besides the obvious benefits of fiber, it helps you stay full longer and lower cholesterol.

More specifically, knowing what sabotages good eating habits will help dictate what sort of changes you can make.

Snacking — Because I work at home, it’s tempting to run to the fridge every five minutes for a snack. To counteract this potential sabotage, I do two things: I don’t buy unhealthy snacks and I make sure to stock up on plenty of carrots sticks, cucumbers and popping corn.

Portion Control — When I dine out, the restaurant sets a portion before me far larger than I need.  Some of my friends can eat just half and take leftovers home.  I've tried, and I just don't have the will-power.  Instead, I start with a salad (to make sure I get some vegetables) and then have an appetizer for my main meal. The appetizers tend to be more interesting anyway, and the portions are usually just right. If I’m still hungry – and usually I’m not – I can order a second appetizer.

I Like My Rich Fatty Foods – And really… who doesn’t? These foods are okay if consumed in moderation. If I’m eating a rich meal, I make sure to serve lots of vegetables along with it. And I start my meal with a serving of vegetables… to make sure I don’t overeat the “unhealthy” stuff before I get to my veggies.

I Drink A Lot of Juice and Soda – I’m such a thirsty person. I probably drink about a gallon of water a day. If I were to drink that in soda or juice, I would be more than 50 pounds overweight. So I drink water. Or decaf iced tea. I avoid diet sodas because the artificial sweeteners trick your system and “disrupt our body’s natural ability to count calories.” In turn, it makes it harder for people to regulate their food intake.

When I Get Hungry, I Eat What Ever’s Around
I do the same thing… being hungry causes me to make very bad food choices. I’ll always want a hamburger instead of a salad, or pasta instead of fish. But how do you avoid getting over-hungry? It requires planning. Maybe it means making several meals on Sunday evening to have in the fridge or freezer. Or perhaps just having a few healthy snacks in the house to stave off the extreme hunger so you can make better food choices. I have several go-to healthy recipes in my repertoire that I can make in less than 30 minutes. And I stock the pantry with staple ingredients for healthy choices.

What are your tips for maintaining a healthy weight?

Here are some easy, healthy recipes from the archives:

Chile and Cilantro Stuffed Tilapia

Moroccan Style Chicken Stew with Chick Peas and Raisins

Soba Noodle Salad with Salmon Teriyaki

Tuscan White Bean Soup with Chicken Sausage 

Black Bean – Quinoa Salad

Savory Greens and Potatoes

Spicy Chick Peas

Photo credit: Open Salon

Acquired Tastes (Recipe: Roasted Radishes)

Radishes2

I’ve never been a huge fan of radishes, which seems odd considering they’re refreshingly crisp and spicy.

Nonetheless, I decided to plant them this year for their reputation of being one of the first vegetables ready to harvest in a spring garden.
I sowed 3 dozen seeds, but only yielded about 10 radishes. They were small, the ones that were larger were half rotten in the middle. In the end, I ate maybe 5.

Radishes

I was disheartened but I will probably try again next year.

At the farmers’ market yesterday, I saw bunches of breakfast radishes… the variety I had hoped for in my garden. I bought a bunch.

When I got home, I washed them off and bit into one. The initial kick of intense spice shocked my palate and cleared my sinuses.  It dissipated quickly, similar to horseradish, but for my taste, they were too peppery to eat straight.  They needed mellowing; roasting was the perfect antidote.

Roasted Radishes with Butter and Soy

1 bunch breakfast radishes
1 tbs. butter
1 tbs. soy sauce
lemon juice to taste

1.  Trim the fuzzy hair and leaves from radishes.  Wash and cut into quarters.

2.  Preheat the oven to 375F.

3.  Heat an oven proof skillet over medium-high flame.  Add the butter.  When melted, add the radishes.  Cook for 3 minutes.  Add the soy sauce, and put the pan in the oven.

4. Roast radishes for about 5 minutes.  Just before serving, squeeze a little lemon juice on top.

Summertime and the Living is Easy (Recipe: Artichoke Dip)

Artichoke-dip

Now that I've moved into my summer home, I entertain more.  And with the beautiful weather, I want to maximize my outdoor-sunshine time and minimize my indoor cooking prep.

Artichoke Dip is an ideal hors d'oeuvre because I usually have all the ingredients in the pantry — canned artichoke hearts, spinach, parmesan, olive oil and lemon juice.  Well, I don't always have spinach in the fridge, but in the garden I have tat-soi, arugula and scallions — all of which would make a fine substitute.

And if you are feeling frisky, as I was the other night, you can drizzle truffle oil on top.

You can serve the dip with either carrot sticks or crackers.  Or both.

Artichoke Dip

1 can artichoke hearts, drained
1/2 cup spinach leaves (or arugula, tat soi, or scallions — any leafy green will do)
2 tbs. freshly grated Parmesan (Reggiano if possible)
3 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste
Truffle oil (optional)

In a food processor, put artichoke hearts, spinach and parmesan.  Pulse until well combined.  With motor running drizzle in olive oil.  Season to taste with salt, pepper and a few drops of lemon juice.

Before serving, drizzle truffle oil on top.

My Summer Home

Memorial Day marks the unofficial start of summer… and I took the opportunity to open up my summer home.
It’s more spacious and airy than my “winter” home. Let me give you a tour…

The Foyer with kale, strawberries and beets flanking the corridor… 

Foyer

The Living Room adorned with garlic shoots and tomato plants…

Living-room

The Dining Room….

Dining-room

The kitchen is definitely more basic than my winter kitchen…

Kitchen

But the pantry is definitely well-stocked with plenty of fresh herbs. 


Herbs-2

Herbs-3

Shhhh…. Can You Keep a Secret? (Recipe: Morels Stuffed with Truffled Chicken Mousse)

Morels field
If you found these morels dotting the woods and fields, you wouldn’t tell a soul where you were. You’d keep this hidden stash to yourself – and with good reason. You could score $40 worth of mushrooms in the course of a half-hour walk.

Mushrooms are wily creatures, and usually appear about 3 days after a rain. I’ve found morels in my back yard, a few feet away from a pine tree. “They” say you can find morels a year after a forest fire near the burn. Or perhaps by new growth that sprouts from fallen trees. Sometimes they hide under dead leaves, others are in plain sight.

In Colorado, where the morel season is just winding down, foragers will hide any evidence they are searching for mushrooms, lest you discover their secret spot and take them. My Aspen friends kindly took me along on an expedition because they knew I could keep a secret.

Morels-1
For that dinner, we sautéed morels and served them with roast salmon and creamy polenta. The next night, we grilled pizzas and topped them with morels and mozzarella. But the highlight were the morels we stuffed with truffled chicken mousse.

Morels---2
Morels Stuffed with Truffled Chicken Mousse

You'll need large morels for this recipe.

16 large morel mushrooms
1 boneless, skinless chicken breast, about 8 oz.
1 egg
3/4 cup cream
1 tbs. truffle carpaccio or oil
1 tbs. fresh tarragon
1 tbs. fresh chives
1 tbs. butter
1 small shallot, peeled and diced
1/4 cup madeira or dry sherry
1 cup chicken stock
salt and black pepper
lemon juice

  1. Cube chicken meat and put in food processor with egg, cream and truffle carpaccio.  Blend until smooth.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add tarragon and chives, and pulse until just combined.
  2. Trim the very ends of morels.  Inspect the inside to make sure there are no bugs. 
  3. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a small tip with the chicken mousse.  Pipe the mousse into the mushrooms.
  4. Heat a large skillet over medium heat-high heat.  Add the butter.  When melted, add the morels and the shallots.  Cook for about 3 minutes, turning occasionally.
  5. Add the madeira and chicken stock.  Cover the pan and cook for 10 minutes more.  Finish with a squeeze of lemon.
  6. Serve with roast chicken or grilled steak.

A Mother’s Day Tradition and A Curiosity

MD-Lei-3 

Every mother’s day, growing up, my sister and I would walk one block down the street to “Azalea Park;” a small parcel of public land lined with a rainbow of azalea plants. They peaked just at Mother's Day. We would pick the flowers and string them together to create a lei for our mother.

This year, I’m in DC just a few days before Mother’s Day, and it seemed like the perfect time to resurrect the old tradition. It must have been 25 years or more since I last made her a flower garland. But as we pulled into the old neighborhood, I noticed that “Azalea Park” was mostly green with a few flecks of pinks and reds and just as many brown spots of blooms past their prime.

It seemed odd to me that I would have been able to create such lush leis growing up, and today there are slim pickings. Is this a case of global warming, that the plants are blooming weeks earlier than they did 25 years ago? Or is this just an anomaly of a very cold winter followed by the warm spring temperatures?

In any case, I was able to create a small gift for my mother… and thank her for the wonderful love and memories of my childhood. Happy Mother’s Day!

MD-Lei-2