Tomatoes – Page 2 – Grow. Cook. Eat.

September 15, 2010

When it Rains, It Pours (Recipe: Moussaka)

My friend Matthew called again the other day in a panic – he had two more boxes from his farm-share, CSA subscription that were now languishing in his refrigerator. He had been sharing the subscription with two other friends, but both were out of town and he was baffled by the bounty.

He brought over his vegetables. Amid the overflowing diversity, I found a 10 pound bag of tomatoes a wee past prime. I began trimming the bad parts from the tomatoes, eyeing the tomatoes on the counter from my garden that also needed attention. Just then, my neighbor showed up outside my window. She brought over a basket of her tomatoes – a thank you for the tomatoes I had shared with her earlier in the season when she had none.

I put a large pot on the stove and started a big batch of tomato sauce. I sautéed garlic in olive oil and then added the tomatoes. I didn’t bother to peel or seed them. Some I didn’t even cut. As they softened from the heat, I crushed them. They cooked down for about 20 minutes, and then I pureed them.

With the base of tomato sauce, and an abundance of eggplant from my garden and the farm-share, I decided to make moussaka.

From the garden: garlic, tomatoes, mint, eggplant
From the CSA box: tomatoes, eggplant

Moussaka
Moussaka is a layered casserole dish with origins in Greece. It reminds me of lasagna with fried eggplant slices instead of pasta.

Eggplant
3 medium sized eggplant
1 tbs. salt
½ cup flour
½ cup olive oil
½ cup grated asiago cheese

Sauce
1 tbs. olive oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 pound lamb
1 tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. dried greek oregano
2 cups tomato sauce
Salt and pepper
2 tbs. fresh mint

Besamel Sauce
2 cups milk
2 tbs. butter, room temperature
¼ cup flour
3 eggs
½ tsp. salt

1. Cut the eggplant into ½ inch slices. Sprinkle them with salt and let sit for 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, start the sauce…. Heat olive oil in a large pot. Add onions and garlic and cook until they start to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the lamb, salt and pepper. With a spoon, break up the lamb. Add the cinnamon, oregano and tomatoes. Continue cooking until the sauce is thick, about 20 minutes. Set aside and stir in the mint.

3. Make the besamel sauce… In a pot, heat 1 ½ cups of milk. In a bowl, whisk eggs with remaining milk. Knead together the flour and butter. Slowly pour in hot milk into egg/milk mixture while whisking vigorously. Return to pot over medium heat. Stir in flour/butter mix and continue cooking until it thickens. Season with salt and remove from heat.

4. Fry eggplant… Brush off excess salt and moisture. Dust slices with flour. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the oil. When the oil starts to shimmer, fry the eggplant slices until golden brown on both sides. It may be necessary to cook in several batches. Drain on a paper towel.

5. Assemble the moussaka: in a 9” x 9” pyrex dish, layer half of the eggplant slices on the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle about 1/3 of the cheese on top. Pour sauce on top and spread evenly in the pan. Layer the remaining eggplant on top. Sprinkle another third of the cheese on top of the eggplant. Pour the besamel sauce on top and sprinkle remaining cheese on top of that.

6. Bake at 375 for 30 minutes or until top is golden brown.

September 10, 2010

The Gift that Keeps On Giving (Recipe: Caramelized Tomato Sauce)

A year ago May, my friend Rena came over for drinks. She brought a gift: a spindly tomato sprout she had started from seed. Given my lack of success starting tomato plants from seed, I was skeptical that I could get this fledging plant to survive the transplanting into the garden, much less produce fruit. But trying to be gracious, I thanked her very much and planted it in a high-sun corner of the garden.

Lo and behold, it survived. And thrived.

This spring, as I was cleaning the garden and weeding the vegetable beds, I noticed a leaf formation that looked like a tomato sprout, wedged in with the mint.

I carefully dug it out, and replanted it with a cage around it. Who knew what would appear.

Sure enough, it was a yellow cherry tomato plant, an off-spring of that original gift from Rena. I couldn’t even imagine the first plant surviving, much less getting a second year’s harvest from it.

Thank you Rena for the gift that keeps on giving!

Caramelized Cherry Tomato Sauce

This recipe comes from my farmer friend Brett and was developed when he was the chef at Restaurant Nora and I was the grill cook.

3 pints whole cherry tomatoes and/or cubed bigger heirloom tomatoes
½ tsp. Kosher or sea salt
½ tsp. black pepper
1 tbs. minced garlic
2 tbs. minced onion
½ to 1 tsp. fresh orange zest
2 T brown sugar
fresh basil, tarragon or thyme
1 tbs. balsamic vinegar

1. Mix together tomatoes, salt, pepper, garlic and onions.

2. Attentively broil, not bake, in an oven until the skins of the top tomatoes have just blackened. Remove from broiler, and stir in half of the above chopped herbs, or fresh herbs of your choice (not dill). Add balsamic vinegar, and taste for any further need for salt or pepper.

3. The sauce is outstanding served atop otherwise mundane chicken, fish, shrimp, or vegetarian rice dishes. It freezes well, but taste after thawing for additional herb, vinegar, or salt needs.

September 2, 2010

Chanterelle-Corn Succotash

Even though I have plenty of vegetables in the garden, I’m in need a little more diversity in my diet. A trip to Russo’s rectified the situation and gave me inspiration for another meal.

Of course, I picked up corn – at peak sweetness, who could resist! And as I scanned the mushrooms, I noticed beautiful coral colored chanterelles: plump and dry, I knew they were fresh. I snatched a half a pound of those too.

When I got home, I opted for a variation on succotash, using the meaty mushrooms in place of the more traditional squash. It makes a lovely accompaniment to roast chicken or burgers.

Chanterelle Corn Succotash
1 – 2 tbs. butter
½ pound chanterelle mushrooms, cut in half or quarters (depending on how large they are)
1 large shallot, peeled and diced
2 – 3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2 ears corn, kernels cut off the cob
1 large tomato, diced
¼ cup dry sherry
5 – 6 leaves basil, chiffonade
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add half the butter. Let it melt and then add the mushrooms, sprinkling the shallots and garlic on top. Season with salt and pepper. Cook without stirring for 3 minutes, or until mushrooms start to brown. Stir and continue cooking for 1 minute more. Add the sherry. Remove mushrooms from pan and set aside.

2. To the mushroom pan, add the remaining butter. Melt over high heat. Add the corn. Season with salt and pepper and cook without stirring for 4 minutes, or until the corn starts to brown and become aromatic. It’s okay if it sticks a little.

3. Add the mushrooms and tomatoes back to the corn pan. Cook for 1 minute more, just to heat through.

4. Remove from heat and put succotash in a serving dish. Season with lemon juice and garnish with basil.

August 31, 2010

Creamy Polenta with Fresh Tomatoes

At Restaurant Nora (my first job out of culinary school 17 years ago), I worked the grill station. I was responsible for cooking and plating any entrée that was grilled as well as the vegetables that garnished the entrees from the sauté station. On a usual night I was responsible for 5 of the 10 entrees. By my rough calculation, I cooked 65% of the 200 main dishes that went out of the kitchen. Oh, and I was also cooked the staff meal. I would serve 10 – 12 plates of left-over chicken, steak or fish from the previous night. The waiters swooped into the kitchen to grab their meals. I had no time to eat as I was busy setting up my station.

On one night, Nora decided to test my muster, and assigned to my station nine of the ten entrees. Effie, the sauté cook, had far more experience than me, but could only watch as I spun in circles trying to keep up with all the orders. He helped when he could, but unfortunately, there just wasn’t enough room behind the grill for both of us.

As the orders began to wind down, I fixed myself a little snack: one of my favorite meal — creamy polenta with steamed carrots and demi-glace on top. It was satisfying without being heavy.

I still love creamy polenta, even though it reminds me of the abuse at Nora’s. I guess it’s that good! With the bumper crop of tomatoes from the garden, I’m using them as a sauce, taking a departure from the Nora days.

Creamy Polenta with Fresh Tomatoes
Most recipes for polenta suggest a ratio of 4 parts liquid to 1 part polenta. For my taste, the polenta gets too firm. I prefer a 6:1 ratio. And given the continued abundan ce of kale in my garden, I could help but sauté a bunch with garlic for a garnish.

3 cups liquid: any combination of chicken stock, water, or milk. I prefer 1 cup of each
½ cup coarse corn meal (grits or polenta, do not use instant)
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
½ cup freshly grated parmesan or asiago cheese

1-2 tbs. butter
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 small shallot, minced
4 tomatoes, cut in half, seeds removed and diced
¼ cup white wine
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Combine the liquid in a pot with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and whisk in polenta.

2. Continue whisking polenta until it starts to thicken. Then switch to a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Stir frequently, being sure to scrape the bottom. Continue cooking for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, start the tomato sauce: Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the butter. When it’s melted, add the garlic and shallots and cook for 1 – 2 minutes… just until soft. Add the wine and tomatoes. Continue cooking for about 10 minutes, or until tomatoes start to thicken. The timing depends on how watery your tomatoes are. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. When polenta is tender, stir in the cheese. Serve with tomato sauce. Garnsih with basil if available

August 20, 2010

Garden Snacks (Recipe: Lobster Salad)

The cucumbers and tomatoes are in full production – I’ m harvesting about 5 tomatoes and 3 cucumbers each morning… more than I can consume on my own. So I’ve been having garden parties.

I slow roasted tomato wedges with olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme. By cooking them slowly, the excess water evaporates and the flavors intensify. The drier tomato paired beautifully with fresh ricotta that was seasoned with basil and lemon. I served them with crackers, though a cucumber base would work well too.

And speaking of cucumber bases, I sliced several cucumbers and served them with lobster salad.

Lobster Salad

1 cup chopped lobster meat (about 1/2 pound)
1 – 2 tbs. mayonnaise
1 tbs. fresh tarragon
2 tbs. chopped celery
1 tbs. chopped scallions
1 – 2 tsp. lemon juice
salt to taste

Mix everything together. Serve with buttered rolls or cucumber slices.

August 16, 2010

In Search of an Ugly Tomato

We all have biases about food, how it should look and how it should taste. Some people will see the green, cracked shoulders of a Pineapple Tomato and think it’s bad. Or wait for a beautiful Aunt Ruby’s Green Tomato to turn red, only to see it rot on the windowsill.

Heirloom tomatoes weren’t bred for shelf-life, uniformity or color. Many are oddly shaped with unusual colors ranging from brownish purple to florescent green. The larger tomatoes crack if the balance of rain and sun slips out of alignment. Sometimes, they have bug wholes that need to be cut away. But the flavor is unparalleled.

Even though I labeled the tomatoes in my garden this year, the rains washed away the writing on the little signs. The only variety I recognize with certainty is the pineapple, with its yellowish streaks and reddish hue. In a side by side taste test with other tomatoes, I decided I like this best for its sweet, juicy flavor and lower acidity. The tomatoes are so large that a single tomato will make a generous salad for two people.

After eating the first two in a simple salad, I made a grilled cheese sandwich with the next ripe one. Interestingly, the low acidity I treasured so much straight, made the grilled cheese sandwich too rich. A more acidic tomato would have better balanced the cheese and buttered bread.

August 10, 2010

Regeneration (Recipe: Roast Salmon with Tomatoes and Potatoes

Subsequent crops of garlic are generated from the previous year’s harvest. Farmers reserve the largest cloves and then plant them in mid-September. The following July, each clove will have sprouted a new bulb.

When I decided to grow garlic for the first time last year, I didn’t have bulbs which I could replant. I didn’t trust supermarket garlic as I know that some commercial varieties are bred to *not* sprout: fine for long-term storage, not fine for growing new garlic. Instead I ordered 3 bulbs from Seeds of Change for $15.

The yield was decent: about ½ pound of scapes and 20+ bulbs. Some of the bulbs were decent sized, but many were small-ish. Was this a result of inadequate sun and fertilization? Perhaps, the smaller, internal cloves produced smaller bulbs? Or maybe it was just the variety of seed I bought (it was rather random how I chose). I’m not sure the cause but I’m hesitant to replant the smaller cloves. And I don’t have enough of the larger bulbs to yield a sufficient crop for next year.

Yesterday, I walked over to the Central Square farmers’ market. I really didn’t need any veggies as my backyard is bursting with tomatoes, cucumbers and kale. But I was having guests for dinner and thought perhaps I would supplement my bounty.

A Dick’s Farmstead, garlic bulbs spilled out from the display. At $1.50 per bulb, this seemed like an economical solution to getting seed garlic. I confirmed with the farmer that his garlic was suitable for planting. I will store it in the basement until the timing is right in September. I put several bulbs (a bag of peaches) in my bag.

Feeling good that I supported my local farmer, I went home otherwise empty-handed. I decided to make do with what I already had.

Roast Salmon with Tomatoes and Potatoes

4 salmon fillets
1 tsp. aleppo chili powder
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tbs. honey
3-4 medium sized, ripe tomatoes
2 scallions
1 small chili
4 medium sized Yukon gold potatoes
3 tbs. butter
large fistful of fresh basil
1 tbs. olive oil
1 tbs. canola oil
salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Season salmon with salt, pepper and aleppo chili powder. Set aside (in the fridge) until ready to cook.

2. In a small stainless steel pot, reduce the balsamic vinegar until 1/4 cup remains. Mix 1 tbs. of balsamic reduction with honey. Brush glaze on top of salmon.

3. Dice tomatoes. Mix with basil (not all of it), scallions, chili and olive oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

4. Cut potatoes into a dice. Put them in a pot with cold, salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to simmer and cook for 5 – 10 minutes more. Timing depends on how small you cut the potatoes — smaller potatoes will cook more quickly. Drain the potatoes. Set aside until just before serving.

5. Put salmon on a sheet tray. Place under broiler for 10 minutes or until it the salmon begins to brown. Switch the oven to bake (375F) and cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Just before serving, reheat the potatoes with the butter. Toss in the remaining basil and season with lemon juice.

From the garden: tomatoes, scallions, basil, chili

From the farm: potatoes

August 7, 2010

Garden Updates – Early August (Recipe: Eggplant Parmesan)

After the long road-trip from the farm in Southern Maryland (for my annual canning pilgrimage) back to Cambridge, I usually take a gander through the garden before unloading the car and making my way inside. Have the tomatoes started to blush? Did I have a cucumber explosion? How many eggplants grew to full-size?

When I left the soil was dry and the tomatoes were floppy. Try as I might, I couldn’t get the tomato cages to stand up straight, the weight of the plants was too much. My neighbor Craig, who I entrusted to water the garden, did a yeoman’s job. Not only did the plants look well hydrated, but he brought in new stakes and garden twine to ensure the tomatoes flopped no more.

The cucumbers had already sprawled across the back fencing. I discovered several cukes that were so overgrown they turned yellow. I was curious if they’d be palatable, so I cut one open. The seeds were large and fibrous and the skin was tough and bitter – definitely not salad material. I could scoop out the seeds, peel them and then use them for a chilled cucumber soup. I will save the seeds for next year as I think they are sufficiently mature.

The lettuce finally succumb to the heat. As soon as I dig it up, I will add compost to the soil and replant for a fall harvest.

And the eggplant plant produced 3 beautiful specimen.

I returned from the farm this year with 68 jars (not as impressive as last year’s 72). But given that I still have 20 jars left from last year, it would seem I have enough for this year as well. I decided to use up a jar of last year’s stash with my dinner.

Eggplant Parmesan
“Parmesan” dishes derive their name not from the namesake cheese but from the region where the dish originated: Parma. In fact, the tradition dish has a layer of Parma ham (prosciutto) and is traditionally made with veal. Breaking fully from tradition, I served this with shrimp. Any self-respecting Italian would never serve fish with cheese, but clearly I’m not Italian.

1 eggplant, sliced into ½ inch rounds
1/2 tsp. salt
½ cup flour
1 egg
1 cup bread crumbs
2 tbs. olive oil
1 tbs. canola oil
1 ball fresh mozzarella, sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 small chili, minced
½ pound shrimp
¼ cup white wine
2 cups stewed tomatoes
Basil, salt and pepper

1. Toss eggplant with 1/2 tsp. salt and let sit for five minutes. Brush off excess salt.

2. Prepare the breading: in 3 separate bowls, put the flour, egg and breadcrumbs. Beat the egg with 2 tbs. of water until homogenized. Dip each eggplant slice first in the flour. Shake off any excess. Then dip into the egg to completely coat, and finally coat the eggplant in the bread crumbs. Repeat this process until all eggplant slices are breaded.

3. Preheat the oven to 375F. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tbs. olive oil and canola oil. Fry the eggplant slices until brown on both sides. Don’t worry if they are not cooked all the way through.

4. Remove eggplant from skillet and put on a cookie sheet. Top each slice with a slice of mozzarella cheese. Bake in the oven until the cheese is melted and bubbly, about 10 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, wipe out the eggplant pan. Add the remaining olive oil, garlic and chili and return to heat. Add the shrimp and cook until they begin to turn pink. Add the wine, and then add the tomatoes. Remove the shrimp from the pan as they are cooked through, but continue cooking the tomatoes until they reduce to a desired consistency (I don’t like thin sauces). Season to taste with salt, pepper and basil.

6. Serve shrimp with sauce and eggplant.

From the Garden: garlic, basil and eggplant

From the Farm: tomatoes and egg

Garden to Table: 45 minutes

July 30, 2010

High Summer (Recipe: Homemade Mozzarella)

At the peak of summer, local tomatoes burst with juicy, sweetness. Their bright acidity calls out for the rich, creamy taste of fresh mozzarella. Now-a-days, you can find so many varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomatoes at the local farmers’ markets and kitchen gardens – and when they are truly vine-ripened, they have a wonderful texture and chin-dripping juiciness. It almost doesn’t matter what variety you pick – they are all delicious! Taste around and pick your favorite. I prefer lower acidity and sweeter flavor.

Why can’t you get a good tomato in February, even if they’re labeled “vine ripened”? Tomatoes go through several phases of development and ripening. Once the fruit has formed behind the flower they go through the green stage, when the tomatoes have a matte sheen and the ripening state when the skin has a more shiny gloss. Tomatoes picked in the green stage will never ripen. On a commercial level, these green tomatoes are treated with ethylene gas to commence the ripening process. Unfortunately, the USDA does not regulate the definition of “vine-ripe” and many commercial producers of tomatoes use the term at their marketing convenience. Because tomatoes are shipped across the country and around the world, producers rely on these tricks to stabilize tomatoes for shipment and increase overall shelf-life. And this is why a February tomato is sometimes referred to as No-mato and can be used in a game of baseball (see video on this page – it’s funny and sad!)

Now that we’re in peak tomato season, I’m savoring them in all sorts of preparations… sauces, pasta and a quintessential summer caprese salad. To do justice to these fine summer jewels, I made my own mozzarella cheese. Sort of. I purchase the curd and then pull it by hand.

Mozzarella curd can be purchased at Armenian markets or through a restaurant wholesale distributor. If purchasing in bulk, I recommend cutting the curd down into 1 pound blocks, wrapping it tightly in plastic and freezing it. The curd will last for 2 years this way.

Mozzarella

mozzarella curd

milk

salt

1. Bring large pot of heavily salted water to a boil

2. Break curd apart into small pieces in a stainless steel bowl.

3. When water is just below a boil (about 190-200F), pour water over curd to cover.

Stir just a little, and let sit for 5-10 minutes. Keep remaining water hot.

4. Meanwhile, fill a bowl with ice, milk and water. The milk bath will be the final storage place for the freshly made mozzarella. The ice will quickly cool the cheese so that it will hold its shape. The milk will keep a balance of flavor in the cheese so that the flavor doesn’t leach out into the storing liquid. The ice bath is all crucial for your hands – to help cool them before stretching the hot curds.

5. Drain water off mozzarella curd. Cover a second time with hot water.

6. Using wooden spoons to grab the curd, pull it out of the water and let it stretch back in… this will smooth out the curds.

7. When there are just a few lumps left in the cheese, grab about a ¼ pound lump and stretch it into a ball. As you’ll be using your hands at this point, it helps to briefly cool your hands in the ice water before grabbing the cheese.

8. When the balls are smooth and round put them in the ice bath to cool and store. Slice and serve.

Thanks to Wes for taking the action shots.

July 19, 2010

Mystery Basket (Recipe: Roasted Pepper and Tomato Salad)

As I opened up the grocery bag of full of vegetables, I had flashbacks to culinary school – visions of my first practical exam. We were given a medley of ingredients and told to create an entrée in one hour. This was not unlike the show “Chopped” on the Food Network (though the ingredients were more user-friendly)

Matthew’s roommate was out of town and he was left alone to contend with the weekly CSA box of produce. He called me in a panic, “Can you do something with this?”

“Of course,” I calmly replied. “What do you have?”

“A bunch of green stuff, spring onions, summer squash and what not.”

What not? Could he be less specific? Now, I was in a panic.

Nonetheless, I agreed to cook dinner for him and his partner. I picked up a piece of swordfish, armed myself with "Even Star Farm CSA Cookbook” and prayed that the ingredients he brought would somehow come together into a cohesive meal.

I unpacked the bag to discover the “green stuff”: kale, basil, cilantro, lettuce and radicchio. There were plenty of spring onions – the bulbous, young onions as well as the more traditional-looking scallions. And the “what-not”: A kousa and yellow squash, 2 tomatoes, a tiny fennel bulb, a bunch of carrots, cucumber and a yellow bell pepper.

As an additional challenge, I didn’t want to supplement with anything beyond the fish and what I had on hand. I also didn’t want to use any vegetables that weren’t in the CSA box or in my garden.

This is what I came up with:

Tuscan Kale and White Bean Soup
From the CSA Box: carrots, kale, onions. From my garden: garlic, celery, thyme

Summer Squash Sautéed with Garlic Scapes
From the CSA Box: squash and basil. From the garden: scapes

Roasted Pepper and Tomato Salad
From the CSA Box: pepper, tomato and basil

Carrot and Fennel Slaw
From the CSA Box: carrot and fennel

Salad with the lettuce, cucumber and carrot
all from the CSA box, though I could have added cucumbers and lettuce from my garden

Quinoa with Kale and Tomato, seasoned with Soy and Lemon
Kale and Tomato from the CSA Box

Alas, I couldn’t figure out how to work cilantro into this, otherwise, European meal. That will get used later in the week.

Roasted Pepper and Tomato Salad
I only had one pepper and one tomato to use, but for a more generous serving, I'd recommend using at least 2 peppers (and maybe even two tomatoes)

2 bell peppers — red or yellow
2 ripe tomatoes
1 tbs. balsamic vinegar
1 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 tbs. fresh basil
salt and pepper to taste

1. Blacken the skin of the pepper over a gas burner (or under a broiler) until blackened on all sides. Put in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stem for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, dice the tomatoes.

3. When peppers are cool, peel away blackened skin. Cut in half; remove and discard the stem and seeds.

4. Cut the peppers into 1/2" wide strips. Mix with the tomatoes. Coarsely chop the basil and add to the peppers. Add the balsamic and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.