Once a year, I retreat to Kripalu in the Berkshires of Western, MA for a weekend of yoga, relaxing and cleansing. The tranquil setting offers a respite from all the toxins of my urban lifestyle – noise, pollution, decadent eating and drinking.
I make no pretense that I would embrace this lifestyle in its entirety on a regular basis — though I very much enjoy the elements. But every once in a while, it feels great to refresh my body. I relinquish wine and red meat in favor of the light cuisine they offer in the cafeteria. Honestly, it’s the quintessential “granola-crunchy-health” food. I never cook this way at home, but it tastes great, and I feel refreshed after eating like I never do after a meal of foie gras and truffles.
I have no plans for visiting Kripalu in the near future, but definitely need a little detoxing – especially after Taste of the Nation and Foie Gras Three-Ways. A friend just unearthed the recipe their famous salad dressing. I made a salad full of virtuous ingredients. After this meal, I feel light and rejuvenated.
Salad (Serves 2 an invigorating lunch)
2 cups arugula or baby spinach 1 small can tuna fish, drained ½ cup cooked chickpeas 2 tablespoons sunflower seeds 2 tablespoons dried cranberries 1 cup steamed broccoli.
Kripalu Dressing 1 cup sunflower oil or grape seed oil 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil ¼ cup soy sauce ½ cup lemon juice ? cup sesame tahini 2 cloves garlic ½ tablespoon dry mustard powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ tablespoon chili powder pinch cayenne ½ cup water
Combine all ingredients and puree in a blender until smooth. Makes about 2 1/2 cups and lasts for a week in the fridge.
As a line-cook working in restaurants, I can tell you Saturday nights are ugly. As my old boss, Lydia Shire always said, this one’s for the house. With the majority of the restaurants’ business on one night, we worked at break-neck speed to serve as many dinners as possible. The specials were designed for speed not creativity. By contrast, Sunday nights were for the kitchen. With the head chefs taking the night off, this was my opportunity to try out my menu ideas as specials. It was also a chance to have fun with the staff. The spirit in the kitchen was lively and jovial, unwinding from the craziness of the previous night. Sunday nights we also got a little lazy.
On one Sunday night, I ran out of watercress on my station. I raced to the walk-in refrigerator to get another bunch. And as I ran back to my station, I tried to untwist the rubber-band that held the bunch together. I dressed the watercress, mounded it on the plate and put it in the window. Michael Murphy grabbed the plate to bring to the table. Not five minutes later, Michael returned with the plate and a rubber-band on top. Whoops! Apparently, I had not effectively untwisted the rubber band from the watercress.
To have a little fun, I ran back to the walk-in and pulled the rubber bands off of everything I could find: watercress, scallions, leeks and celery. I mounded them on a plate and garnished it with a sprig of watercress. Into the window, I called Michael back to the kitchen. With my apologies, I said, this is how the salad had meant to be presented.
Michael one-upped me, and served the “salad” to his customers. His guests were very good natured, and we all had a good laugh!
Braised Endive with Watercress and Apple Salad
2 large endive, cut in half lengthwise, or 4 small endive 1 bunch watercress 1 red apple 3/4 cup grated gruyere cheese 2 lemons, juiced 2 tbs. sugar 1 shallot, diced 1 tbs. cider vinegar 3 tbs. extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper to tastea
1. Put endive in pot with sugar and lemon juice. Cover with water. Season water to taste with salt and pepper, and additional lemon juice or sugar as necessary. Bring water to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Let endive simmer for 30 minutes, or until tender.
2. Meanwhile, Core and slice apple (do not peel). Toss apples and watercress with vinegar, olive oil and shallots. Season to taste with salt and pepper (and fresh thyme if you’d like).
3. When the endive is tender, remove from liquid. Put endive in an oven-proof dish. Cover with cheese. Melt cheese in oven (350) for 5 minutes.
4. Serve half a large endive, or 1 whole small endive with a small watercress and apple salad.
Beets get a bad rap, though I’m not sure where it comes from. Perhaps it’s a hold-over from the days when the only variety available were canned, leaving them mushy, salty and bland. To me, they are a perfect balance of firm, refreshing texture with a sweet, earthy flavor. Best of all, they are nutritious, so I feel downright virtuous when I consume a bowlful like candy.
Last week, beets appeared at the market. They were shamefully small, and I couldn’t imagine there’d be much left after peeling. As much as I love beets, it seemed the farmers were rushing the process.
This week, however, they were decidedly larger. With the greens still attached I know they are freshly harvested — beets that have been in storage have the tops cut off as they wither in a few days. Like tomatoes, beets come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes – candy striped with white rings, golden, pink and red. They range in sweetness, the red sometimes cloying by comparison to the lighter colors.
Roasting beets intensifies the flavors and the sweetness. It also makes peeling easier. Before roasting, be sure to scrub the beets well to remove all the dirt. Toss them in some olive oil, wrap in foil, and bake in a 350 oven for an hour or so.
Lately, my favorite preparation has been roasted with bacon and onions. While the beets are roasting, I sauté bacon and onions together until the bacon is crisp and the onions are caramelized. When the beets are cooked, I peel and slice them and toss them in the bacon-onion mix. Seasoned with a little lemon juice or mint, they are the perfect accompaniment to salmon (Crusted with pistachios and horseradish) or a pasta carbonara with peas or asparagus. Pureed with a little olive oil or chicken stock, it makes a delightful sauce for just about anything.
Beets with goat cheese are a classic combination. The tart, creaminess of the cheese balances with the sweet, firm texture of the beets. Though, I don’t eat nuts, walnuts add both texture and flavor that some say is the perfect compliment.
Of course, beets stain exceptionally well – hands, cutting boards and clothing. The best remedy is to wash with a paste of cold water and baking soda. Not only does it remove the red from your hands, it leaves them soft as well. Beets and Goat Cheese Napolean with Buttered Walnuts
1 lb. red beets 2 tbs. olive oil 1 red onion, finely diced 1 tbs. red wine vinegar 1-2 tbs. fresh chopped thyme 4 oz. creamy goat cheese salt and pepper to taste
1. Put beets in a pot and cover in cold water. Season water with salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer. Continue cooking for 30 minutes, or until skins easily peel off.
2. When beets are cooked, cool under cold running water. Peel beets. Slice. Toss beets with red onions, vinegar, olive oil and thyme.
3. Put beets on a plate, and dollop goat cheese on top. Garnish with mesclun and buttered walnuts
Balsamic Mesclun 1 pound mesclun 3 tbs. balsamic vinegar 1 tsp. shallots 1 tsp. thyme 1 tsp. mustard ½ cup + extra virgin olive oil pinch sugar salt and pepper to taste
Put balsamic, shallots, thyme and mustard in a blender. Puree. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sugar
Buttered Walnuts 1 cup walnuts 2 or more tbs. butter salt and pepper
Melt butter in skillet. Toss in walnuts and toast until lightly browned and fragrant. Season with salt and pepper.
With the record temperatures of this past weekend, I eagerly inspected the garden for transformations from a spring garden to a summer garden.
The arugula and mizuna decidedly prefer cooler weather. In this heat, they feverishly bolt and go to seed. Unlike basil, in which you can trim the flowers to prevent this process, lettuces develop thick stalks that are impossible to retract. At the top of the stalks are the buds and flowers that are the precursor to the seeds. Leaves continue to grow, but they become bitter as the season continues.
I decided to harvest as much lettuce as possible – the lettuce at this stage will keep longer and better in my refrigerator than in the ground. In the off-chance that I have a few more salads to come from these plants, I harvest in the “cut-and-come-again” method. That is, I cut the leaves just above the smallest leafette – about 2 inches above the soil line. The smallest leaves are spared and given the chance to mature.
The first of the tomato plants started to flower last week. I’m guessing that I have to wait another 4 weeks until the first fruit is ripe. The biggest curiosity of the garden is the basil. Four weeks ago, I purchased a six-pack of basil plants. Since the garden has various degrees of sun and shade, I decided to hedge my bets and plant in different locations. Some plants get more morning sun, others afternoon sun. Here are two of the plants:
I had heard rumors that morning sun is better than afternoon sun. But intuition told me that afternoon sun would be better for “full-sun” plants like tomatoes and basil because the light is more intense. Given the huge disparity in these two plants, I decided to do a little research.
In the pro-morning sun column: The morning sun is better as it evaporates the morning dew and prevents leaf rot. Afternoon sun can be too intense and burn the plants.
In the pro-afternoon sun column: plants that like full sun do better with the intensity of afternoon sun. The best sun is between 11am and 2pm.
More important, I discovered, are the micro-climates.
Believe it or not, in my little swatch of land in Central Cambridge, there are at least 10 micro-climates. The variations and sun and temperature come from the obvious: shade providing trees and structures such as houses and fences, and the position in the garden. The bit of garden on the side of the house where the lettuces grow have 4 regions. As witnessed by the vigor of the plants, the center path gets the most sun. On the right side, closest to my house, gets slightly less sun. On the left side, closest to my neighbors gets the least. The front portion gets more than the back. Less obvious are the reflections from windows. My neighbor behind me has windows that act like mirror to the sun onto my garden. Especially the morning sun hits at just an angle that the plants along the back fence get double duty – direct natural sunlight and the reflection from the windows. The plants in the “afternoon sun” section only get a single dose.
Determining the micro-climates of your garden is a matter of trial and error. Another option is to plant and see what happens. Based on what thrives and dies, you can figure out what works best where.
In case you didn’t figure it out, the sickly looking basil was in the afternoon sun section, and the thriving basil was in the morning sun section.
Over the weekend I moved the smaller plants to what I hope to be a better location in the morning sun section.
Balsamic Vinaigrette
All this salad is great to ensure that I get my 5 recommend daily servings of fruits and vegetables. But salad dressing quickly cancels out the benefit with all the fat and calories. Here’s a reduced fat version of the classic balsamic vinaigrette (unlike bottled dressings, this is all natural).
2 shallots
½ cup olive oil
1 tbs. fresh thyme
½ cup balsamic vinegar
½ tsp. sugar
¼ tsp. pepper
1. Peel shallots. Mix with ¼ cup olive oil and wrap in tin foil. Bake for 20-30 minutes, until soft, and nicely roasted
2. In a blender, puree shallots, thyme and vinegar together. If it’s too thick, add a few tablespoons of water. Slowly drizzle in remaining olive oil. Season taste with salt and pepper.
With the record temperatures of this past weekend, I eagerly inspected the garden for transformations from a spring garden to a summer garden. The arugula and mizuna decidedly prefer cooler weather. In this heat, they feverishly bolt and go to seed. Unlike basil, in which you can trim the flowers to prevent this process, lettuces develop thick stalks that are impossible to retract. At the top of the stalks are the buds and flowers that are the precursor to the seeds. Leaves continue to grow, but they become bitter as the season continues. I decided to harvest as much lettuce as possible – the lettuce at this stage will keep longer and better in my refrigerator than in the ground. In the off-chance that I have a few more salads to come from these plants, I harvest in the “cut-and-come-again” method. That is, I cut the leaves just above the smallest leafette – about 2 inches above the soil line. The smallest leaves are spared and given the chance to mature.
The first of the tomato plants started to flower last week. I’m guessing that I have to wait another 4 weeks until the first fruit is ripe. The biggest curiosity of the garden is the basil. Four weeks ago, I purchased a six-pack of basil plants. Since the garden has various degrees of sun and shade, I decided to hedge my bets and plant in different locations. Some plants get more morning sun, others afternoon sun.
Here are two of the plants:
I had heard rumors that morning sun is better than afternoon sun. But intuition told me that afternoon sun would be better for “full-sun” plants like tomatoes and basil because the light is more intense. Given the huge disparity in these two plants, I decided to do a little research.
In the pro-morning sun column: The morning sun is better as it evaporates the morning dew and prevents leaf rot. Afternoon sun can be too intense and burn the plants. In the pro-afternoon sun column: plants that like full sun do better with the intensity of afternoon sun. The best sun is between 11am and 2pm.
More important, I discovered, are the micro-climates. Believe it or not, in my little swatch of land in Central Cambridge, there are at least 10 micro-climates. The variations and sun and temperature come from the obvious: shade providing trees and structures such as houses and fences, and the position in the garden. The bit of garden on the side of the house where the lettuces grow have 4 regions. As witnessed by the vigor of the plants, the center path gets the most sun. On the right side, closest to my house, gets slightly less sun. On the left side, closest to my neighbors gets the least. The front portion gets more than the back.
Less obvious are the reflections from windows. My neighbor behind me has windows that act like mirror to the sun onto my garden. Especially the morning sun hits at just an angle that the plants along the back fence get double duty – direct natural sunlight and the reflection from the windows. The plants in the “afternoon sun” section only get a single dose.
Determining the micro-climates of your garden is a matter of trial and error. Another option is to plant and see what happens. Based on what thrives and dies, you can figure out what works best where. In case you didn’t figure it out, the sickly looking basil was in the afternoon sun section, and the thriving basil was in the morning sun section.
Over the weekend I moved the smaller plants to what I hope to be a better location in the morning sun section.
Balsamic Vinaigrette All this salad is great to ensure that I get my 5 recommend daily servings of fruits and vegetables. But salad dressing quickly cancels out the benefit with all the fat and calories. Here’s a reduced fat version of the classic balsamic vinaigrette (unlike bottled dressings, this is all natural).
2 shallots ½ cup olive oil 1 tbs. fresh thyme ½ cup balsamic vinegar ½ tsp. sugar ¼ tsp. pepper
1. Peel shallots. Mix with ¼ cup olive oil and wrap in tin foil. Bake for 20-30 minutes, until soft, and nicely roasted
2. In a blender, puree shallots, thyme and vinegar together. If it’s too thick, add a few tablespoons of water. Slowly drizzle in remaining olive oil. Season taste with salt and pepper.
Once a year, I retreat to Kripalu in the Berkshires of Western, MA for a weekend of yoga, relaxing and cleansing. The tranquil setting offers a respite from all the toxins of my urban lifestyle – noise, pollution, decadent eating and drinking.