Potatoes – Grow. Cook. Eat.

October 25, 2010

The Same Thing, Only Different (Tallegio Stuffed Tater Tots)

One of my favorite hors d’oeuvres is roasted potatoes with tallegio and truffle. It’s so easy to prepare and always impresses, no doubt it’s the intoxicating aroma of truffles. But these are really best fresh out of the oven. After a few minutes the cheese starts to congeal, and they’re just not as good.

As I’ve commented before, my style of entertaining has simplified. I love having a big platter or hors d’oeuvres and snacks before dinner, but I also want to serve items that I can put out and then just enjoy my company.

I decided to reimagine this dish to withstand a little sitting at room temperature. Instead, I made tater tots, filled them with the cheese, and drizzled a little truffle oil and honey on top. Just before the guests arrived, I popped them in the oven to reheat. The panko-crust kept them nice and crispy. And the potato wrapping kept the cheese warm and oozy. I served them with homemade ketchup, but this was gratuitous.

Tallegio Stuffed Tater Tots with Honey and Truffle Oil.
4 yukon gold potatoes
½ cup flour
1 – 2 teaspoons salt
1 egg
¼ pound tallegio cheese. Rind cut off and cut into ¼ inch cubes
1cup panko crumbs
1 cup clarified butter or canola oil
1 -2 tbs. truffle oil
1 tbs. honey

1. Put potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook potatoes until tender, about 20 minutes.

2. When potatoes are cooked, drain them and put them through a potato ricer. The ricer will extract the skin from the potatoes, so no worries. Alternatively, you can grate the potatoes using a food processor or hand grater. In any case, grate the potatoes while they’re still warm

3. Let potatoes cool to room temperature

4. Mix potatoes with, flour, salt (to taste) and egg.

5. Divide dough into 4 balls and roll potato dough into 4 logs. Cut each log into 1 inch pieces. Flatten out each piece, put a piece of tallegio inside and fold the dough over.

6. Roll each tot in panko bread crumbs. If you’d like, you can further reshape the tots to a round shape.

7. Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add butter or oil. In batches, cook tots on all sides until evenly browned, about 5 minutes. Put on a serving platter and drizzle truffle oil and honey on top. Serve with ketchup if you’d like.

August 10, 2010

Regeneration (Recipe: Roast Salmon with Tomatoes and Potatoes

Subsequent crops of garlic are generated from the previous year’s harvest. Farmers reserve the largest cloves and then plant them in mid-September. The following July, each clove will have sprouted a new bulb.

When I decided to grow garlic for the first time last year, I didn’t have bulbs which I could replant. I didn’t trust supermarket garlic as I know that some commercial varieties are bred to *not* sprout: fine for long-term storage, not fine for growing new garlic. Instead I ordered 3 bulbs from Seeds of Change for $15.

The yield was decent: about ½ pound of scapes and 20+ bulbs. Some of the bulbs were decent sized, but many were small-ish. Was this a result of inadequate sun and fertilization? Perhaps, the smaller, internal cloves produced smaller bulbs? Or maybe it was just the variety of seed I bought (it was rather random how I chose). I’m not sure the cause but I’m hesitant to replant the smaller cloves. And I don’t have enough of the larger bulbs to yield a sufficient crop for next year.

Yesterday, I walked over to the Central Square farmers’ market. I really didn’t need any veggies as my backyard is bursting with tomatoes, cucumbers and kale. But I was having guests for dinner and thought perhaps I would supplement my bounty.

A Dick’s Farmstead, garlic bulbs spilled out from the display. At $1.50 per bulb, this seemed like an economical solution to getting seed garlic. I confirmed with the farmer that his garlic was suitable for planting. I will store it in the basement until the timing is right in September. I put several bulbs (a bag of peaches) in my bag.

Feeling good that I supported my local farmer, I went home otherwise empty-handed. I decided to make do with what I already had.

Roast Salmon with Tomatoes and Potatoes

4 salmon fillets
1 tsp. aleppo chili powder
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tbs. honey
3-4 medium sized, ripe tomatoes
2 scallions
1 small chili
4 medium sized Yukon gold potatoes
3 tbs. butter
large fistful of fresh basil
1 tbs. olive oil
1 tbs. canola oil
salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Season salmon with salt, pepper and aleppo chili powder. Set aside (in the fridge) until ready to cook.

2. In a small stainless steel pot, reduce the balsamic vinegar until 1/4 cup remains. Mix 1 tbs. of balsamic reduction with honey. Brush glaze on top of salmon.

3. Dice tomatoes. Mix with basil (not all of it), scallions, chili and olive oil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

4. Cut potatoes into a dice. Put them in a pot with cold, salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to simmer and cook for 5 – 10 minutes more. Timing depends on how small you cut the potatoes — smaller potatoes will cook more quickly. Drain the potatoes. Set aside until just before serving.

5. Put salmon on a sheet tray. Place under broiler for 10 minutes or until it the salmon begins to brown. Switch the oven to bake (375F) and cook for 5 minutes more.

6. Just before serving, reheat the potatoes with the butter. Toss in the remaining basil and season with lemon juice.

From the garden: tomatoes, scallions, basil, chili

From the farm: potatoes

March 8, 2010

You say po-TAY-to, I say po-TAH-to

Potatoes vary in water and starch content, making some varieties better for baking and others better for roasting.

The high-starch potatoes, like russets, also oxidize quickly making them a challenge. And if you’ve made latkes with this variety, you know what I mean. By the time you have the potatoes grated, you have a bowl of black shreds. Soaking them in water, rinses away the starches that make them oxidize and also what crisps them up.

New potatoes, like red bliss, have a higher water content and lower starch. This makes them better for roasting, and making potato salad (when holding the shape is important.)

I tend to use Yukon gold potatoes for most all potato recipes; they are sweet and creamy, and work well for mashers and roasted.

Perhaps they don’t crisp as much as Russets when roasted due to the lower starch content. To help them develop a crust when roasting, I toss them in olive oil and corn starch. This additional starch clings to the potato and browns in the olive oil

For an added touch, I toss them with parsley and lemon zest just before serving. This brightens the flavor.

Roasted Potatoes with Lemon Zest and Parsley
4 medium sized yukon gold potatoes
2 tbs. olive oil
1 tbs. corn starch
zest from 1 lemon
1 tbs. fresh parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 400F.
2. Wash and dry potatoes. Cut into 6th.
3. Toss potatoes with oil, corn starch, salt and pepper. Make sure potatoes are evenly coated.
4. Place potatoes on a cookie sheet in a single layer. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes, or until crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.
5. Toss potatoes with lemon zest and parsley.

March 6, 2010

Yukon Gold (Recipe: Potato Puree)

Joel Robuchon is famous for his mashed potatoes which have almost as much (if not more) cream and butter as potatoes. Perhaps there was a time when I would have enjoyed these, but now-a-days all that excess fat makes me a little queasy.

Yukon Gold potatoes have a wonderful sweet creaminess to them that makes them ideal for a healthier version of mashed potatoes. And to get them really smooth, I use a potato ricer. It looks like an extra-large garlic press.

Some home cooks have been known to whip their potatoes to make them airy, smooth and light. But all the mixing actually activates the glutens creating an end-product that simulates wall-paper paste. But, after passing the potatoes through the rice, they only need a few quick stirs with hot cream or milk and a generous seasoning of salt. No fear of making gluey potatoes.

These potatoes make a perfect side to steak with sauteed spinach. A classic steak-house dinner.

Potato Puree
4 Yukon Gold potatoes
1 cup cream
salt

1. Peel potatoes and cut into chunks. Place them in a large pot, and cover with cold water. Season generously with salt.
2. Bring the potatoes to a boil, and cook until they are tender. Depending on the size of the potato chunks, this could be 5 – 20 minutes.
3. Drain potatoes well. While they are still hot, put mash them through the potato ricer.
4. Stir in cream. Season to taste with more salt.

December 21, 2009

Frost Bitten (Recipe: Savory Greens and Potatoes)

photo credit: Christine Bergmark, Even' Star Organic Farm

The process of breeding greens for winter-tolerance takes many years. Each spring, after the grueling winter winds have dissipated and the snow has melted, Farmer Brett inspects his fields for survivors. In a field of thousands of plants, maybe 10 have withstood the elements. Before the plants begin to flower, he transplants them within 50 feet of each other. When the plants flower, several weeks later, the bees can pollinate them. And after the plants flower, they generate seeds for subsequent years’ plantings. After several years of breeding out weak plants, Brett has robust and flavorful plants.

Last week, Brett came north to the New England Fruit and Vegetable Conference to talk about cold hardy greens and how New England farmers can adapt this process to the more severe winters.

He brought with him several varieties of greens for sampling and also for cooking dinners at the end of the meetings. The greens are spicy and full of flavor and texture. The overnight frosts that Maryland experienced (before the two feet of snow from two days ago), causes a chemical reaction in the plants which makes them sweeter.

The recipe for Savory Potatoes and Greens comes from his Winter CSA cookbook. I used basil from my garden (that I froze in August) to season the dish.

SAVORY VEGETARIAN GREENS AND POTATOES
3 average sized russet potatoes, washed but with skins on
salted water to cover
1 bag (gallon) any of our cooking greens
3 – 6 T mix of olive and neutral oils
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1 t black pepper
½ to 1 t salt
½ bunch scallions
fresh herbs, or 1 t dried oregano, basil, or rosemary

1. Gently boil potatoes until just cooked (skins aren’t all coming off, and a sharp knife inserted into spud encounters a teeny resistance). Remove from pot with a slotted spoon. Let cool, then chop into bite-sized pieces. Use same water to barely blanch greens, and be sure to shock in an ice bath. Drain in colander, and push out all extra water. Chop coarsely. Set aside. In a heavy skillet (works best in seasoned cast iron), sauté onion and garlic ‘til barely soft. Add potatoes and fry, scraping pan bottom often and adding more oil if needed. When potatoes have started to brown, add greens, herbs, and chopped scallion. Cook two minutes more. If needed, season further before serving: this should be hearty, not bland.

2. Can nicely be served with a dollop of sour cream, or of home-made guacamole, or with grated cheddar or Monterey jack, on top. Also really good with 1 teaspoon whole cumin seed (added to skillet right before spuds go in) in lieu of or in addition to other herbs. Hot peppers complement the latter approach well.

January 19, 2009

Craving Summer (Recipe: Tater Tots)

I know, I know. I just came back from vacation, but with a fresh 10 inches of snow on the ground, I am craving the warmer weather. “Only 2 more months,” I tell myself, before the weather starts to turn around.

In the meantime, I canned a little bit of sunshine over the summer. Some people call them tomatoes. I have a stash for moments just like this…

Last night, I was invited to a friend’s house for dinner. When asked what I could bring, she appreciatively suggested I bring a starch to accompany the steak and broccoli they were serving.

I knew the steak would have some hearty spices and the broccoli with a heavy hit of lemon and garlic. I opted for tater tots, which gave me a good excuse to open a can of the smoked tomato ketchup I canned last summer. I knew that the flavors would be strong enough to hold their own with the steak, but straightforward as to not clash with the spices.

Tater Tots

4 yukon gold potatoes

½ cup parmesan cheese

½ cup flour

1 – 2 teaspoons salt

1 egg

1cup panko crumbs

1 cup clarified butter or canola oil

1. Put potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook potatoes until tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Let potatoes cool to room temperature

4. Mix potatoes with parmesan cheese, flour, salt (to taste) and egg.

5. Divide dough into 4 balls and roll potato dough into 4 logs. Cut each log into 1 inch pieces.

6. Roll each tot in panko bread crumbs. If you’d like, you can further reshape the tots to a round shape.

7. Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add butter or oil. In batches, cook tots on all sides until evenly browned, about 5 minutes. Serve with ketchup.

January 19, 2009

Craving Summer, Part I – Tater Tots

In the meantime, I canned a little bit of sunshine over the summer. Some people call them tomatoes. I have a stash for moments just like this…

Last night, I was invited to a friend’s house for dinner. When asked what I could bring, she appreciatively suggested I bring a starch to accompany the steak and broccoli they were serving. I knew the steak would have some hearty spices and the broccoli with a heavy hit of lemon and garlic. I opted for tater tots, which gave me a good excuse to open a can of the smoked tomato ketchup I canned last summer. I knew that the flavors would be strong enough to hold their own with the steak, but straightforward as to not clash with the spices.

4 yukon gold potatoes
½ cup parmesan cheese
½ cup flour
1 – 2 teaspoons salt
1 egg
1 cup panko crumbs
1 cup clarified butter or canola oil

1. Put potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook potatoes until tender, about 20 minutes.
2. When potatoes are cooked, drain them and put them through a potato ricer. The ricer will extract the skin from the potatoes, so no worries. Alternatively, you can grate the potatoes using a food processor or hand grater. In any case, grate the potatoes while they’re still warm

3. Let potatoes cool to room temperature

4. Mix potatoes with parmesan cheese, flour, salt (to taste) and egg.

5. Divide dough into 4 balls and roll potato dough into 4 logs. Cut each log into 1 inch pieces.

6. Roll each tot in panko bread crumbs. If you’d like, you can further reshape the tots to a round shape.

7. Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add butter or oil. In batches, cook tots on all sides until evenly browned, about 5 minutes. Serve with ketchup.

I'm submitting this recipe to this month's Potato Ho Down, being hosted by the delightful Christie of Fig and Cherry.

December 20, 2008

The Miracle of Latkes

The original story of Channukah (or Hanuka, Chanuka, or Hanukkah) recounts the rededication of the second temple of Israel. During the first century C.E., the Holy Temple of Jerusalem was under Greek rule, and the Jews could not enter and pray in this sacred and holy place. Miraculously, in 148 C.E. the Jews defeated the Greeks and reclaimed their temple. It had been desecrated and needed to be rebuilt and cleaned up. The rededication of the temple lasted eight days, and included burnt offerings. This celebration became the annual holiday of Hanukah (the spelling my computer spell-check prefers).

Centuries later, the story is retold in the Talmud, and is embellished with the miracle of oil: When the Jews were cleaning up the temple, they need to oil to light the “Eternal Light.” They found an oil flask that seemed to contain only enough to last for 1 day, but instead lasted for eight. It is through this story that foods cooked in oil become the central theme of the holiday.

To me, the real theme of the holiday is potato pancakes (latkes in Jewish), a further stretch of imagination from the original story – since the potatoes are cooked in a only a modest amount. The shredded potatoes are mixed with onion and perhaps a little flour and egg for binding, and are served with either sour cream or apple sauce.

Modern culinarians have adapted the original recipe to include zucchini, parsnips or sweet potatoes. My preferred recipe is a blend of regular and sweet potatoes. I make homemade pink applesauce – the pink coming from the skin of red apples.

Sweet Potato Latkes

1sweet potato

2 medium new potatoes Idaho potatoes

2 onions

2 tbs. flour

1 egg

1 tsp. baking powder

¼ cup

plain oil

salt and pepper to taste

1. Peel potatoes and onions. Grate using the largest whole of a cheese grate or food processor. Pour into a colander and squeeze out the liquid.

2. Mix potatoes with flour, egg, salt, pepper and baking powder.

3. Heat a large skillet over medium high flame and add about 2 tbs. oil. Spoon about 2 tbs. of batter per latke – about 4 latkes per batch. Cook for about 5 minutes or until brown, flip and cook on other side. Repeat until all the batter is used

4. Serve with apple sauce or sour cream or both.

5. Latkes can be pre-made and recrisped in a 450F oven just before serving.

Pink Apple Sauce

3 empire apples, cored with the skin on

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

a few drops of lemon juice

1. Put apples, sugar and water in a sauce pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Continue cooking over medium-low heat, covered, until apples turn mushy.

2. Remove from heat. Press sauce through a food mill to extract the peels from the sauce. Add a few drops of lemon juice.