And the Winner Is…..

*******Drum Roll, please!******

Paul Sussman's Buttermilk Fried Chicken!

*******applause, applause applause****

Please welcome Chef Paul as he shares with us his recipe:

Ingredients:

  • 1 small chicken (I like small chickens, around 3 pounds, what used to be called “fryers”, rather than “broilers” which weigh in at 4 to 5 pounds because when frying chicken the challenge is to cooking the pieces through before over- browning the batter.
  • 1 cup of cultured buttermilk
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon ground, toasted cumin
  • a few sprigs of fresh thyme
  • a few drops of Tabasco
  • Flour (preferably non-bleached white) (finely ground corn flour can be mixed in, or even substituted entirely)
  • Oil for frying


Cut the chicken up into 10 pieces as follows: Remove the backbone and use it, with the heart and gizzard to make stock. Fry up the liver and eat it, well salted and smushed on crackers for a snack. Cut the wings off, cut the legs off, split the legs into thighs and drumsticks and then split the breasts in half. The breast splitting is optional, but remember that smaller pieces fry better and everyone wants a breast, so we now have 4 instead of 2. Remove the skin from all but the wings.

Combine the buttermilk, salt, pepper, cumin, leaves of thyme stripped of the sprigs and Tabasco. Add the chicken, mixing well, and refrigerate for several hours, up to 24.

Drain the chicken, retaining the marinade. Put some flour in a bowl, put the reserved marinade in a bowl next to it. Dredge each piece of chicken in the flour, shake off the excess, dunk into the buttermilk, then back into the flour and arrange them on a sheet pan with enough room to keep them from touching. Put them in the refrigerator for 15 minutes (this allows the flour to absorb all the liquid making a batter.)

Heat ½ inch of oil in a heavy skillet to 350 to 375 degrees. If you don’t have a thermometer, or are too lazy to use one like me, the oil is at the right temperature when a few drops of water flicked into the oil sizzles (hot enough) but doesn’t explode (too hot).
Lay the chicken pieces into the pan without crowding, let them set for a minute then move them around a bit by sliding a metal spatula under beach to make sure it is not sticking.

Now, the hard part is keeping the temperature right. The cold chicken will reduce the temperature of the oil, so you might want to raise the flame when you first put the pieces in, but beware of leaving it too high. In other words, you must watch and adjust accordingly, to keep things sizzling, but not burning, turning the pieces when they need to but not too often so the batter has time to set.

When done remove the pieces onto something absorbent. (“When done”? How do I know when, you ask? And I answer, as all chefs do: “well… you just know”)

Popeye’s Smack Down

For those of you keeping track…

It all started with a twitter David received from Popeye’s that Cakebread Chardonnay is the best wine pairing for Popeye’s mild fried chicken. As everyone knows, I have a weakness for Popeyes, so we promptly organized a Popeye’s-Wine Tasting. Alas, Round I yielded no clear winner. Chicken was great, wine mediocre. You can read about it here.

For the second round of Popeye’s-Wine tasting, we brought in the competition – Coast Soul Café Fried Chicken. The wine selections were better, and Popeye’s still is the best fried chicken. More details here. Chef Paul departed that evening with some fighting words, “I can make better fried Chicken than Popeyes!”

Now this was no longer about the wine pairing… it was about the Chicken. I have no doubt in the world that Paul is a talented chef… if you’ve had his Shrimp Shrimp Cha Cha Cha (or mac and cheese, or chicken wings) you’d know. But compete with Popeyes??? His response: “I sez BRING IT ON!!!!!”

Last Saturday we gathered at my house for a Popeye’s Smackdown! Coast Soul Café had already rendered itself unworthy, so we did not bring that into the mix. In one corner we had Paul’s iron-skillet, buttermilk battered fried chicken. In the other: Popeye’s mild.
Popeyes chicken

Pauls chickenThe Popeye’s Meal Pack came with biscuits and sides. I snuck a biscuit before the guests arrived – salty, greasy, tasty! But then Cynthia arrived with a homemade verison inspired by Martha Stewart's recipe. She brushed the tops with butter and sea salt. There’s just no comparison – the real thing wins every time. And Cynthia’s biscuits were light and melt-in-your-mouth delicious!

Coleslaw

For the main meal, we had homemade coleslaw from Dina. I had sampled the Popeyes', and it was just too sweet and a little soggy. While I don’t like to waste food, I couldn’t justify eating it. Of course, Dina’s coleslaw was far superior with crisp cabbage, carrots and onions and a zingy mayonnaise dressing. I made salad with the garden tomatoes and cucumbers, and roasted beets.

But let’s talk about the chicken! As if looking at the two chickens wasn’t enough to differentiate, the taste difference was clear! As we tore into Paul’s chickens… juicy and seasoned to the bone, we knew we were eating real chicken. Popeye’s just tasted salty, with no chicken flavor. To Popeye’s credit, though, the crust was crunchy and tasty – a result of deep-fat frying and god knows what artificial chemical or process.

As I was cleaning up the next day, still thinking about chicken, I reached in the fridge for a snack. All that was left was the Popeyes. I guess everyone that night recognized a winner and ate every last morsel of the real thing!

Stay tuned…. coming next: Paul's Winning Recipe

Thanks so much to Paul for inspiring such a fun evening – and bringing the winning chicken. And a special thanks to Dina for the coleslaw and the caramel ice cream. And to Cynthia for the biscuits and apple crisp. And Dina and David for taking the pictures.

My Ten Favorite Dishes: #5: Guilty Pleasures

We all have our guilty pleasures…. The little indulgences that we know aren’t good for us, and perhaps don’t even fit our personality or lifestyle. I’m not embarrassed to share mine – as a self professed foodie and gourmand, I’ll admit mine in is Popeyes Fried Chicken . I’m “guilty” because I know how bad it is for me. It’s guilty because their chickens, despite proclamations on their website, probably live a life similar to those of I saw on the Perdue chicken truck. Guilt aside, I’m like Pavlov’s dog when I smell that distinctive greasy, salty aroma.

Growing up in Washington DC, with a soul-full, southern culture, Popeyes are as popular as any other fast food chains. I first experienced the crispy, seasoned-to-the-bone chicken when I was 16. The biscuits are buttery and light, and the red beans and rice has a smoky hint of ham hocks. Over the years, I’ve eaten fried chicken all over the south, and so far nothing has come close.

I moved into my first apartment in Boston because of its proximity to Popeyes. Alas, the last Popeye’s closed in Boston in 1995 and did not return until last year. Great fan fare preceded the opening with buzz on Chowhound – a decidedly foodie website. Apparently, I’m not alone in this guilty pleasure. True vindication came when The Boston Globe reviewed it… the first ever review of a fast food chain.

Popeyes reached a new level of refinement when Popeyes’ twitter recommended the best wine pairing was with a $45 bottle – Cakebread Chardonnay. Up until this point, I had always stuck with 7-Up. Not surprising, though, the best wine with Popeyes, according to a recent blind tasting, was a $5 bottle. You can read all about the Popeyes Wine Tasting here. What’s your favorite beverage to pair with Popeyes?

As if I need an excuse to eat Popeyes, it’s right next to Fenway Park! And what’s more American than Baseball and… Fried Chicken.