Locavore – Grow. Cook. Eat.

February 20, 2012

25 Tips for Going Local without Going Crazy

No matter where you live, eating seasonally and locally offers a different way of thinking about food. While some areas of the country are relatively blessed to have locally grown fruits and vegetables for longer seasons, such as California and Florida, even these regions still have strong seasonality as to when each type of produce is at its best.

Locally sourced and seasonally raised foods taste better. They spend more time in the fields ripening – developing sweetness and flavor – because they don’t need to be picked under-ripe for shipping thousands of miles away. Picking under-ripe vegetables also reduces the nutritional value. Farmers can grow more diverse varieties, bred for quality and flavor rather than long shelf life. And though a region may experience a drought or unusually cold weather for a season, the fruits and vegetables still grow at their optimal time, ensuring the best possible taste. Picking under-ripe vegetables reduces the nutritional value.

Buying local also benefits the environment and economy. When we reduce our “food miles,” the distance our foods travel from farm to table, we reduce our carbon footprint – the impact of transportation, refrigeration and packaging needed to carry produce around the country. With each local food purchase, you ensure that more of your food dollars go to the farmer and local economy in the form of revenue and taxes. Buying
local food keeps your dollars circulating in your own community. In Massachusetts alone (where I live), if every household purchased just $12 worth of farm products for eight weeks (basically the summer season), over $200 million would be reinvested in our local farmland.

Here are 25 tips for eating local without going crazy.

Out and About

1. Shop at the Farmers’ Markets
This is the most obvious… the farmers’ market is the best place to find local foods. Here in Boston, you can find year-round markets. The summer months are brimming with greens, tomatoes, melons and other veggies. And the winter is bright too – with green house veggies, storage roots, and plenty of meats, dairy and grains.

2. Circulate the Farmers’ Market before you buy
Cooking with what’s available locally requires a little more flexibility. When you get to the market, look around and see what’s available. This will help inspire ideas of what you can prepare.

3. Shop at your local grocery store
Getting to the farmers’ market isn’t always possible. Schedules with work and kids can get in the way. You can still support the local economy, if not by purchasing local food, by purchasing at local markets. You are still keeping more of your food dollars in the local economy.

4. Eat in restaurants that support local agriculture
Now-a-days, more and more restaurants are supporting local farmers. Check out The Chefs Collaborative website for restaurants that support local ag.

5. Store your produce well
Often times, it seems that produce from the grocery store only lasts a few days before it wilts and rots. Properly stored, you’ll have more time to use everything you buy. You’ll be making fewer trips to the market, and spend less.

6. Purchase through an aggregator.
In the Boston area, we have Boston Organics and Farmers to You. Both deliver farm-fresh produce, on a schedule, and reduce the hassle of shopping.

On a budget

7. Eat the whole vegetable
Don’t throw away the beet tops or radish tops. They are great in soups and stews.

8. Subscribe to a CSA
Probably the most economical way to get the freshest produce available. For about $25/week, you will get a variety of what’s in season. Find a CSA on the Local Harvest website.

9. Cook at home
You know where your food is coming from and it’s cheaper

10. Avoid processed foods
There is nothing local (nor sustainable) about high-fructose corn-syrup. If you want prepared foods, buy what is made in the grocery store, instead of a plant out in the middle of nowhere.

11. Ask for seconds
Locally grown produce, from small production farmers, tend to have more lumps, bumps and bruises. It still tastes great, even if it doesn’t look perfect. Farmers’ will often discount the “seconds.”

12. Get to know your farmer
They can help you figure out what’s most economical and best tasting. They can also offer tips on how to cook up the lesser know items.

13. Learn to cook with cheaper cuts of meat
Free range meat is more expensive, there’s no way around that. But you can stretch your food dollars by buying the less expensive cuts. They tend to have more flavor, but also require special attention when cooking. Ask your farmer the best way to cook each cut. Some are better for stewing. Others are good grilled after a good, tenderizing marinade.

14. Volunteer
Either at the farmers market or at the farm. You can get the best, freshest food, for the cost of a few hours of your time.

Planning

15. Can sauces, pickles and tomatoes
Produce is cheapest (and of course most flavorful) when it’s in season. Take advantage and stock up. Preserving food by canning is a great way to extend the tomato season, and create your own specialty pickles.

16. Freeze herbs, corn and leafy greens
Some items freeze better than canning. Herbs should be washed and dried well before freezing. Leafy greens should be cooked. Corn can be frozen cooked or raw.

17. Buy in bulk
And freeze. You can usually get a discount, and you can have your favorite foods year round.

18. Eat nutrient dense food, you’ll need less food
I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve felt hungry even when I don’t need food. Just as often (and probably more), I’m hungry for nutrients. When I eat nutrient dense food like legumes or kale, I feel sated quicker and eat less.

19. Cook enough for left-overs
Cooking at home is the best way to ensure you know where all your food is coming from. But cooking 3 meals a day is laborious… and honestly… who has the time? Cooking enough to have left-overs takes only a few minutes more and can save hours every week.

Keeping it Interesting in Winter and year-round

20. Use Condiments
Espeically in the winter time, root vegetables and grains can get a little dull. Spice up your meals with chutneys and other condiments. Most grocers will carry a stash of locally sourced jams, pickles and other condiments. Have fun!

21. Experiment with new recipes
Of course, my cookbook is a great source for new recipes. And there are plenty of recipes out there. Rutabagas and kale don’t have to be boring.

22. Compost
Get a second life out of our food scraps. By composting, you are creating soil to put back into the eco-system. Better still, you will become more aware of what you are wasting. It can help you become a more conscious shopper, cook and eater.

23. Start an herb garden
For the same price as a package of fresh herbs, you can buy an herb plant (and use your compost to fertilize it). A little bit of fresh thyme or basil will brighten up any dish.

24. Purchase seasonally
Food tastes best in season, has the best nutrition and is the most cost effective. Learn what’s seasonal in your area. To learn about what's in season in your area, go here.

25. Think beyond produce
With the exception of folks living in California and Florida, it’s hard to eat 100% local, year-round. But you can do better if you think beyond produce. Meats, grains and dairy are all available locally and year-round. Do what you can.

January 30, 2010

Raw Milk and Cookies

As the sun begins to peer through the trees, Chris is out in his yard tending to his animals – two horses, 4 cows, 2 pigs and a dozen chickens. With the exception of two cows (who were born on his farm), they were all rescued from neglectful owners.

I visited the farm early last Sunday hoping for a chance to milk Melissa, the 6 year-old Jersey cow. Chris made no promises:

You're welcome to visit the animals any time. They do love visitors, and I like showing them off. Getting the opportunity to milk my cow is a whole 'nother kettle of fish.

Melissa allows me to milk her because she knows and trusts me. We've developed a routine, and she knows that I'm going to look out for her well being, and am going to be kind and gentle with her. If a strange person attempts to handle her udder, she's probably going to be upset. She's going to walk away, and might even kick. It's likely that she won't "let down her milk" as well, and will be disturbed for the rest of the morning. Let me put it this way: how comfortable would you be allowing a stranger to put his hands on your body? Jersey cows have personalities and feelings. They really are unique creatures. They aren't milk machines that plod through life (although the food industry typically assumes such a thing).

On the other hand, Melissa is an amazing cow. While most cows would not allow themselves to be milked by anyone if a stranger walked into the barn, Melissa tolerates visits from the oil truck, the propane guy, and various and sundry visitors. She will tolerate noises, distractions and changes to the routine better than most. She just might get fussy about touches from strangers.

If you'd like to visit, and watch, you're more than welcome. You might get lucky, and she'll allow you to milk her. Just don't set your heart on it.

When I arrived, the animals were roaming around the yard, with minimal fencing to keep them at bay. They had barns where they could retreat from rain, snow and wind. Otherwise they walk around, unfazed by the sub-freezing temperatures.

Chris finished his chores, and led Melissa to the front driveway where she’s fed and milked. First he brushed her coat. This helps rid her of loose hair that might otherwise fall into the milk. Then he sanitizes her udders with a vinegar and water solution. Finally, he rinses the “line” by pulling a few ounces of milk out of each udder.

He milks by hand: pinching the top of the udder with the base of his thumb and first finger, and then squeezing out the milk with a firm tug. The milk flows out in a steady, rhythmic stream.

After the first two udders are drained, he lets me take a turn. I pet Melissa, showering her with affection in hopes that she will let me also milk her.

Indeed, I’m able to milk her. I have a few false starts with handling the udders, trying to squeeze the milk. I’m timid — fearful that I will hurt her, I don’t tug hard enough. I get the hang of it and the milk starts to flow, though not as vigorously as when Chris did.

In the end we Chris got about ½ gallon of fresh milk. The milk is poured through a coffee filter to strain out any hair which may have fallen in.

In its natural state, the milk is about 5% fat. Since it is not homogenized, the cream rises to the top, and after 24 hours, I can separate low-fat milk from the cream. I poked a whole in the bottom of the milk jug and let the lighter milk, which had settled on the bottom strain out.

Raw milk is not readily available. State health boards fear that the naturally occurring bacteria are harmful. In Massachusetts, dairy farms need a special license to sell raw milk and are inspected monthly. Nonetheless, farmers often choose this option because tends to be a economically more viable option for them than selling to dairy conglomerates like Gaerelick. Consumers prefer it because the enzymes and probotics in raw milk have been shown to have many health benefits and actually tend to be safer than pasteurized milk. And folks that have lactose intolerance fair better with raw milk because of the increased lactase.

For more details about raw milk, you can read here.

And what better way to enjoy the sweet, creamy, fresh taste of raw milk than with a plate of cookies!

Chocolate Chip Cookies

This recipe is adapted from Bo Friberg, my pastry instructor in culinary school.

4 1/2 oz. unsalted butter, room temperature
3 oz. brown sugar
3 oz. white sugar
1 egg
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
6 1/2 oz. flour
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
6 oz. chocolate chips

1. Using the paddle attachment of a mixer, cream the butter and the sugars at medium speed for 2 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla and mix to combine.
2. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Add the butter mixture and mix over low speed until combined. Stir in the chocolate chips.
3. Using a spoon, measure out about 2 tbs. of dough. Use your hands to shape into a ball and place on a cookie sheet. Continue until all the dough is formed into cookie balls. At this point you can freeze the balls to bake later or bake all immediately. Make sure you properyly space them so there's about 2 inches between them.
4. Bake at 375F for 10 minutes, or until the edges are lightly brown and the middle still looks a bit sticky.

July 8, 2009

Buy Local Challenge

"I pledge to eat at least one thing from a local farm every day during Buy Local Week!"

Join me in this challenge: All you have to do to take the challenge is commit to eating local during Buy Local Week (July 18 – 26 in 2009).

Why is buying local so important?

Local food is fresher and tastes better than food shipped long distances. Local farmers can offer varieties bred for flavor rather than for long shelf life.
With each local food purchase, you ensure that more of your money spent on food goes to the farmer. Buying local food keeps your dollars circulating in your own community. In Massachusetts, if every household purchased just $12 worth of farm products for eight weeks (basically the summer season), over $200 million would be put back into the pockets of our farmers.
Locally grown food retains more nutrients and is less likely to cause foodborne illnesses than food that is shipped from far away. Buying local enables you to choose farmers who may avoid or reduce their use of chemicals, pesticides, hormones, antibiotics or genetically modified seed.
Buying from a local farm cuts down on the distance food travels, reducing the consumption of oil and carbon emissions nationwide.

When you buy local, you help to ensure that the benefits of our farms survive for many years to come.

Can you take the challenge?

For more information on the Buy Local Challenge, click here.

Psst, pass it on.

November 14, 2008

Native Cantabrigian Mesclun

When I tell people my lettuce crop is in full swing in November, they are usually surprised. Most people think of lettuces as a summer crop (maybe spring?). In fact, lettuces prefer the cooler weather. In the summer, they get bitter and bolt – the stalks spring up woody and the plant starts to flower and go to seed. In the cool weather they are sweet and a little spicy. The plants can survive a frost and even a light dusting of snow.

These lettuces fall into the “cut and come again” category. If you harvest properly, about 2 – 3 inches above the root, they will keep growing all season. While I don’t typically pick the lettuce in advance, sometimes I will harvest over a few days so that I have enough for a larger gathering. Each day, I pick only the biggest leaves, and the others keep growing. Unlike store-bought lettuces, my backyard lettuce lasts an impressive 10 days in the refrigerator – no need to worry about picking lettuces a few days in advance. Even better, they can last over night after they've already been dressed. This comes in handy if you pre-make sandwiches for lunch or dress too much salad for a dinner and want to eat it the next day.

I’m growing three types of lettuce for my Mesclun mix:

Tatsoi….

Mizuna…

Arugula….

Portobello and Mesclun Salad

3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 shallot, diced
2 sprigs of thyme
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 pound mesclun
2 tablespoons truffle oil or extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
freshly grated Parmesan
salt and pepper to taste

1. Put portobellos on a baking sheet, fins up. Sprinkle garlic, shallots and thyme on top. Drizzle olive oil and balsamic vinergar on them and season with salt and pepper. Bake at 375 for 20 minutes or until they are tender. Remove from oven and let cool.

2. When mushrooms are cooled, slice them. Toss lettuce first with truffle oil. Then season with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Top with mushrooms and parmesan cheese.

October 7, 2008

All Purpose Autumn – Squash Puree

Acorn and butternut squashes are quintessential autumn. Not only are they delicious and nutritious, the burnt orange color beckons the crisp autumn air. My favorite preparation: pureed. In this form it is so versatile:
– Served as a side dish with pork, skate or duck.
– Thickened with parmesan and bread crumbs for a ravioli or cannelloni filling
– Thinned with chicken stock for a soup

Above, I served the squash puree with fried sage, seared skate, port wine sauce and the first of the season arugula and mizuna from the garden. As a soup, this recipe won second place at the locavore banquet last month. And it couldn’t be easier.

Squash puree
1 acorn squash
1 butternut squash
1 tablespoon butter
1 royal gala apple, cored and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon Madras curry powder
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Slice squash in half from the root to the stem. Put cut side down on a baking sheet with about ½ cup of water. Bake at 375F for 1 hour, or until squash are tender.
2. Meanwhile, heat a skillet over medium heat. Melt the butter and add the apples and onions. Saute until they start to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook for 2 minutes more.
3. Remove squash from oven, scoop out the seeds and discard. Scoop out the squash flesh and combine with apple/onion mix.
4. Puree in a food processor until smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
5. Adapt as desired.

That Extra Loving Touch:

If making soup, thin with 1 quart chicken stock
If making a filling, thicken with ¼ cup parmesan cheese and ¼ cup bread crumbs
Either way, garnish with Fried Sage

September 18, 2008

Locavore Banquet

As I was driving to the locavore banquet, thinking of course that I should be biking or taking the “T”, I considered what it meant to reduce my carbon foot-print. Obviously, it means driving less and eating more local foods. But in the scope of making conscious food choices, it also means eating less processed foods, meat and dairy products. Reducing my carbon foot-print directly correlates to reducing my waistline: driving less + biking more, eating less meat + eating more grains and vegetables, growing foods in my garden (and the inherent work-out) + buying less from the market.

When arrived at the Arlington Unitarian church, the site for this and literally 125 years of community banquets, I immediately forgot about my carbon footprint and instead thought of how to help Team Cambridge present their dishes most beautifully. Team Cambridge had prepared the dishes on Saturday and then transported them to the banquet on Sunday.

The Locavore Banquet – part competition, part community dinner – was designed as a throwback to the New England Bean Supper and a model for a future of living responsibly in an ever-shrinking world. The event highlighted locally-sourced food as the three teams used sustainably grown ingredients to make a meal. Teams from Arlington, Cambridge, and Medford competed in the “Energy Smackdown” by preparing dishes that balance taste, presentation, and low carbon footprint. The dishes were judged by local food writers for taste and presentation. The organizers used a fancy algorithm to calculate carbon-footprints.

I was the culinary coach for the Cambridge Team (think: Bob from The Biggest Loser). My goal was to help the team create a cohesive menu utilizing the bounty of New England Produce. It’s really not that hard this time of year: every day of the week there’s a farmers market within a 5 radius of my house. King Arthur Flour and Cabot Creamery are the next state over in Vermont. Austin Bros. Family Farm raises cows, chickens and pigs – providing ample supply of the meats, bacon and eggs. If you can forgo chocolate (and I know that’s a BIG “if”), you can create a bountiful meal with less than 100 food miles.

Our dinner for 20 people generated only 6 pounds of carbon emissions. By comparison, the typical Thanksgiving dinner generates 44 pounds! (Based on data from www.dailymail.co.uk). The big carbon culprits are beef, fish and dairy products. According to the judging cards, chicken’s foodprint is almost half of fish. Other data suggests that fish and chicken are equal.

Chart comes from http://fivepercent.us

Team Cambridge did not win first prize, but of the 21 dishes, the acorn squash soup won 2nd place! The best part is that the soup is served in the squash, so there are no dishes to wash after serving. The “bowl” is compostable. Recipe coming next week…

Other highlights were the poached pear and falafel with beet raita:

I did not taste the other winning dishes: a raspberry sorbet with chocolate and a green salad with walnuts and cranberries. Standouts to me (aside from Team Cambridge’s dishes) were the stuffed pepper with ground beef and rice, green beans with onions and bacon, and a frittata with potatoes and four cheeses.

Thanks to Ellen for taking photos!

September 14, 2008

Energy Smackdown

Energy Smackdown is a reality show type program in the Boston area. The yearlong challenge pits the communities of Medford, Arlington and Cambridge against each other to see who can reduce their carbon foot-print the most.

The locavore banquet is this month’s challenge. Each team creates a four course meal for 20 people and is judged according to carbon emissions, taste and presentation. I’m the “culinary coach” of the Cambridge team. Together, we came up with a middle-eastern menu. Ninety percent of the ingredients are grown or raised locally. Many came from my garden.

Acorn Squash Soup with Crispy Sage
Tomato – Cucumber Salad with Dill and Lemon
Homemade Falafel with Beet Raita and Pita Chips
Baba Ganoush with Roasted Eggplant and Scallions
Poached Pears with Meringue and Mint

My neighbor Rosie often comes over to pick raspberries. The other day she commented that coming into my garden is like going to the grocery store. My goal has always been to grow enough food for my home and my neighbors’. I can’t tell you the joy I felt that a five-year old could appreciate the abundance of my garden, and that I had enough to contribute to the locavore banquet.

The banquet is tonight… stay tuned for details.

August 16, 2008

Farm Share Thursday

My neighbors were on vacation this week, and they offered me their weekly CSA subscription box. The vegetables come from Parker Farm. I knew Steve Parker back when he used to deliver to restaurants. He also used to be a fixture at the Central Square Farmer’s Market, but this year he’s only at the Saturday’s Market in Union Square, Somerville. I especially like to support the farmers I know.

In the spirit of Farm Share Tuesday, I invited a few friends over to enjoy a dinner in the garden eating farm fresh food.In my box this week: yellow carrots, cucumbers, corn, sweet onions, radishes and arugula. To add to the bounty, I still had a few things left from my visit to the farm: Cherokee purple and turtle gold tomatoes, eggs and new potatoes. And to round out the offerings: fresh herbs and celery in the garden.

With Dina in the house, I had to make my now famous Smoked Chicken Salad¸ tossed with celery, carrots, and onion tops, mixed with mayonnaise. I canned peachy mamas at the farm, which made a lovely hors d’œuvre to accompany the chicken, served with crackers. Or if someone has celiac disease, you can use cucumber slices instead of crackers.

The main meal, which coincidentally was gluten-free, manifested itself into: Arugula, Tomatoes and Cucumber, Simply Dressed with Basil, Lemon and Olive Oil

Creamed Corn – the surprise hit of the night

Tortilla Espangola with Smoked Tomato Ketchup

Vietnamese Crepes

(Makes 16 8” crepes)

1/2 Pound Rice Flour
2 Ounces Corn Starch
2 Eggs
1 ½ Cups Coconut Milk
1 Cup Water
2 Teaspoons Salt
2 Teaspoons Turmeric
4 Tablespoons Canola Oil
1 Pound Carrots, Peel, Julienned Or Shredded
6 Red Radishes, Julienned Or Shredded
½ Cup Mint Leaves, Julienned
2 Teaspoons Salt
1 Cup Vinegar
1 Cup Sugar
Pinch Chili Flakes
1 Garlic Clove, Minced
1 Tablespoon Fish Sauce

Combine corn starch, rice flour, salt and turmeric in a bowl. Stir in eggs, coconut milk and water. Add more water if the batter is too thick, more rice flour if too thin.
Heat a large, non-stick skillet over medium-high flame. Add 1 tbs. of oil, or enough to coat the bottom of the pan. Add 1/3 cup batter to pan, swirl around to create a thin layer.
Cook crepe until crepe is crispy and brown on the bottom. Fold crepe in half. Repeat process with remaining batter.
Mix carrots and radish with salt and let rest for ½ hour, or until carrots are soft. Add mint.
Combine remaining ingredients for sauce in a stainless steel sauce pot. Cook over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat.
Combine carrots/radish with sauce.
Serve crepes with salad.

August 12, 2008

Tales from the Farm – Early August

Brett called two weeks ago to let me know that the plum tomatoes were in full production! He knows I plan an annual visit to the farm with the sole goal of canning tomatoes to last me through the winter. He suggested I come for a visit soon, lest I suffer the same fate as last year: my timing was off and the varieties available, though more flavorful than the plums, were too juicy for preserving. By the time I arrived this week, he had set aside 50 pounds of #1 plum tomatoes, plus another 20 pounds of #2 Cherokee purples which would add depth of flavor to my sauces.

The guise of my trip was to can tomatoes, but in truth, I cherish every opportunity to visit. In an era of high fuel costs and rising food prices, where the average food travels 1,500 miles from the field to the plate, I take a special pleasure in harvesting my food just hours before eating it. A typical meal on the farm has less than 10 food miles. Lamb comes from Donna and Cameron, just a few miles down the road in Lexington Park. Friend Bob fishes in the Chesapeake Bay, 1,500 feet from the farm – sharing his catch of Cobia, Bluefish or Striper. Vegetables, chicken and eggs come from the fields less than ½ mile from the house. The Mennonites raise livestock for milk and cheeses about 15 miles north in Leonardtown. Deer prance in the fields surrounding the farm, occasionally venturing into the fields and eating the watermelon. “Crop management” means we occasionally eat venison, too!

The farm is at peak production now – harvesting several varieties each of tomatoes, okra, red peppers, cucumbers squashes, eggplant, watermelon and okra. Meals are abundant, but so is the work.

The watermelon and okra coexist nicely on the south fields, neither encroaching on the others space. Unlike some of the other crops, the watermelon doesn’t mind the shade that the okra creates from its talk stalks. And in fact, it’s a good thing… when the crew harvests the watermelon, they leave them in the shade of the okra until they come with a truck to gather them all.

Neither is fun to harvest. The obvious challenge in watermelon is the weight. The crew will harvest one ton each week – 5 pounds at a time. After passing through the patch, snipping the ripe ones from the vine, the crew will pass through a second time with a tractor – one person driving the tractor off to the side and two others gingerly setting each watermelon in its hopper. The okra’s spiny stalks prickle as you harvest. To make the task palatable, the crew wears long sleeves and gloves – necessitating an early morning harvest before it gets too hot in the fields, making the protection as unbearable as the spiny stalks.

With proper protection, I love picking okra. The abundant flowers are beautiful white with a purple center; they smile at me. Brett usually hoards the okra for market, but my reward for harvesting is as much okra as I can eat. I usually make a succotash for one meal and deep fry some for a second. In fact, market demand is so strong, Brett doesn’t eat okra until September.

On the north side, with all the tomatoes, is my favorite chili – affectionately named “Peachy Mama.” Typically, it’s a sweet pepper with floral undertones. But since they are planted so close to the spicy chilies, they sometimes get cross-pollinated and develop a little kick. Unlike other chilies that are equally delicious red-ripe or green, the peachy mama is only good when it’s fully ripe — a pale orange. Harvesting is tricky… the brittle branches lose their flowers (the predecessor to the chili) easily. Each pepper must be carefully inspected for ripeness, but a clumsy touch means fewer chilis in subsequent weeks.

SAUTEED OKRA WITH TOMATO AND CORN

1/2 pound fresh okra
1 medium vine-ripened tomato – Cherokee Purple or San Marzano
1 small onion
2 cloves garlic
1 peachy mama pepper or ½ small red bell pepper
1 ear corn, kernels cut from cob
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil or butter
1 tbs. fresh Genoa or lemon basil
salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

Cut okra into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Chop tomato. Dice onion, chop garlic and cut corn from cob. In a heavy skillet heat butter over medium-high heat. Add the corn in a single layer and sprinkle the onions and garlic on top. Do not stir for a few minutes until the corn develops a sweet, roasted aroma. Stir, and continue cooking for 1 minute. Add the okra and pepper, stirring occasionally, until the okra is bright green, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomato and basil and simmer, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes, until everything is heated through. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste.

July 29, 2008

Farmers’ Market Report – Summer Bounty

In the farmers’ market this week, all the summer time favorites are finally available: fresh, local sweet corn, heirloom field tomatoes, cucumbers, blueberries, and peaches. In additional, the farmers graciously grow lots of staples and fillers so that we can prepare a full meal (though some would argue that corn and tomatoes is a complete meal) with just locally grown foods.

When I worked under Lydia Shire, at the now defunct Biba, she taught me how to appreciate color on the palate. She would garnish a fish or meat dish with something white (potatoes), green (watercress) and red (beets). Each garnish was bright and vivid, and with a back-drop of rosy lamb or florescent wild salmon, the colors on the plate just popped.

I think of her every summer as I compose one of my favorite dishes: Roast Salmon with Creamed Corn (yellow), Roasted Tomatoes (red) and Basil Coulis (green). Creamed Corn utilizes just the kernels; the cobs can be saved for a stock or other recipe. . I’ve seen many neat tricks for removing the kernels, including this one on Simply Recipes. I usually just lay the cob on its side and use the full blade of the knife to slice down and back. Wasn’t it Newton’s law of physics: for every action there’s an equal and opposite reaction…. If the cob is on its side, then the kernels, don’t fall as far, and therefore don’t bounce as far away on the counter. Once I have the corn prepped, I can proceed with the recipe.

Given my inclination for a completely locavore meal, I think a steak from Austin Brothers Valley Farm Local striped bass would be lovely too, but no one at the market is selling fish. To complete the meal, I would prepare a blueberry bread pudding: bread from hi-rise (sold at the farmers market and eggs also from Austin Farm. Though no one is selling milk, I know I can get fresh local dairy at the Harvest Co-op – avoiding the mega chain of Whole Foods and supporting the local supermarket.

Beef Tenderloin with Summer’s Trilogy

1 whole filet, weighing about 5 lb., trussed
salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon plain oil

3 ears of corn, kernels cut off

1 tbs. butter

1 large fresh red onion, diced

5 cloves garlic, diced

1/2 cup cream

1/2 tsp. curry powder

4 roma tomatoes, cut in half

1 tbs. olive oil

1 slice smoked bacon

1 tsp. fresh thyme

1 bunch basil

2 lemons, juiced

plain oil

salt and pepper to taste.

Season filet with salt and pepper.

Heat a large sauté pan, or grill over high heat. Add oil to pan. Sear filet on one side, sear until golden brown on the other. Finish roasting in 350 oven for about 10-20 minutes, or until desired doneness.

Meanwhile….
Toss tomatoes with olive oil, thyme, 2 tbs. diced onion and 1 tbs. garlic. Roast in 500F oven, until tomatoes begin to brown and blister.

Render bacon in a skillet. When crispy, coarsely chop and mix with tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Melt butter in a skillet. Add corn, 1 tbs. chopped shallots and 1 tsp. garlic. Cook until garlic and corn begin to brown. Add curry powder and cook for 1 minute more. Add cream, and cook for 5 minutes, or until cream is reduced by 1/2. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

In a blender, puree basil with 2 tbs. chopped onion, lemon juice and 1/4 cup of olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
After tenderloin is finished roasting, let rest for 10 minutes. Slice. Garnish with corn, tomatoes, basil coulis (and fresh summer zucchini too!)