An Exercise in Love (Recipe: Pan Seared Halibut with Cider Reduction and Roasted Vegetables)

Halibut

My sister and her family came to visit last week. They don’t make the trip often – flying up four people (from Richmond) is downright expensive. And because they are orthodox Jews, finding a time that does not interfere with school, work and Shabbat can be most challenging.

When they do visit, I try to accommodate their religious lifestyle. The biggest challenge is kashering my kitchen (the act of making my kitchen kosher). The Jewish dietary laws require the separation of milk and meat (which translates into separate dishes for milk meals and for meat meals) and a prohibition on pork and shellfish. Because I don’t cook kosher, I cannot cook for them in my kitchen as is, even if I buy all kosher ingredients. I need to go through a ritual process that cleanses my kitchen of traces of "treyf." Obviously, my kitchen is regularly cleaned and sanitized, so there aren’t really remnants of pork or lobster on the counters or even in the dishes. But that’s not the point.

I have separate dishes in the basement that I use when they visit, as well as a few pots and pans.  I even have a dish-drainer just for them (we can't use my dishwasher since it can't be ritually kashered). I also need to take care of the oven, counters, stovetop, sink and a few miscellaneous pieces of equipment (tongs, my fish spatula) that I don't have extra. The process takes me about two hours. Sometimes I think I’ll just pretend, and tell my sister I actually did it for her. But it’s so important to her, that I can’t deceive her like that.

This is what I do:

1. Turn the oven on self-cleaning. I think I only need to do this for one hour, but my oven requires a minimum of 4, so that’s what I do.

2. Boil a cup of water in the microwave until it has evaporated.

3. Turn all burners on high for an hour.

And then it gets a little complicated….

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. I do this while I’m doing step 3. The pot has to be really big – because it is into this pot that I’ll dip anything that’s not kosher that I’m trying to make kosher. I’ll put in some extra pots and pans, some cooking utensils and even a cookie sheet or two. It also has to be really full so that when I drop a rock into it, the water will overflow. This is to mimic free flowing water.

I could also take everything to a body of free flowing water (like a river or ocean) and dip it in there. Perhaps that would be easier.

5. So when the water boils (and I have to make sure I’m done with step 3 by this point), I drop a rock into the water so it overflows.

This is the part I hate the most. I stare at the pot, wondering if when I drop the rock in, the water will overflow. If it does, I’m following ritual, but I know it will create a huge mess.

6. I then take cup fulls of water and pour it all over the counters and sink.

7. Once the sink is kosher, I can start kashering all the utensils and pots. I submerge them into the water and then run them under cold water.

And that’s it! Seven easy steps to make your Jewish friends feel welcome in your home.

My cooking simplifies when I'm cooking kosher, mainly because I don't have the little tools like a blender, cuissinart or kitchen aid.

Pan Seared Halibut with Cider Reduction and Roasted Vegetables
2 cups fresh pressed apple cider
1 pound brussels sprouts
2 tbs. olive oil
2 pounds parsnips
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 butternut squash
1 onion
1 apple
1 tsp. curry powder

1 stick butter
1 cup cream
4 pounds halibut, cut into 8 portions
1/4 flour
salt and pepper to taste

  1. Pre-heat oven to 400F 
  2. Put apple cider in a pot over high heat and reduce by half.
  3. While the cider is reducing, prepare the vegetables:  Cut the Brussels sprouts in half.  Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place them on a baking sheet, cut side down and roast for 20 minutes, or until browned on the bottom side.
  4. Peel the parsnips.  Cut into wedges.  Melt 2 tbs. of butter.  Toss parsnips in melted butter, salt, pepper and 1 sprig of thyme.  Put on a cookie sheet and roast until carmalized brown on the bottom side, about 30 minutes.
  5. Peel the butternut squash and apple.  Cut into a small dice.  Peel and dice the onion.  Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Melt the butter.  Add onions, apple and squash.  Cook, without stirring, until they start to brown.  Stir occasionally.  Add curry powder, salt and pepper to taste.  Continue cooking until squash is tender.
  6. When cider is reduced, add cream, and continue to reduce by half again.
  7. Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Season fish with salt and pepper.  Dust with flour.  Add oil and thyme sprig to pan.  Cook halibut until browned.  Flip over and cook for 2 minutes more.
  8. Serve halibut with sauce and roasted vegetables.

The Last Breath of Summer (Recipe: Tod Mun)

Tod-mum
Last week, a friend came over for dinner. Immediately when he walked in, he complained that the house was too cold, and could we please turn on the heat. He was right – the windows were wide open, outside temperatures were hovering in the low 50’s and inside wasn’t much warmer.

Normally, I’m more accommodating of friends’ requests, but on this evening I knew that closing the windows meant summer was over. And I wasn’t ready for that admission.

I acquiesced.

The garden has also succumbed to autumn. The blight finally overcame the tomatoes. And the cucumbers stopped growing just shy of being sweet.

With the last tomato, I indulged in a simple tomato-mayo sandwich.

With the last sweet cucumber, I made a relish to accompany spicy Thai Tod Mun. These fish cakes get their heat from red curry and brightness from kaffir lime leaves. They give warmth to summer’s last breath and welcome in the fall.

Thai Style Fish Cakes
1 lb. 2 oz. white fish filets, minced (use food processor if necessary)
5 tbs. red curry paste (more or less to taste)
4 tbs. fish sauce
1 egg, beaten
8 tbs. tapioca flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tbs. palm sugar or brown sugar
10 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced, stems discarded
8 Chinese long beans or string beans, thinly sliced

Oil for frying

Sauce
6 tbs. water
6 tbs. sugar
1 tbs. chilli powder
2 tbs. roasted peanuts – chopped
2 tbs. cucumber, thinly sliced
½ cup chopped cilantro

1. Make dipping sauce: put water, sugar and vinegar into a pan, bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and add chilli powder and cucumbers. Garnish with cilantro

2. Mix ingredients for fish cakes together in a bowl until thoroughly combined. Form into cakes.

3. Fry fish cakes in medium hot oil until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towel. Serve while still hot with sauce.

Mint, Part Deux

Trout-mint-bacon

After the mojitos, which I accidentally made too strong, I needed dinner. With plenty more mint in the garden (and bacon in the fridge) I prepared another favorite, simple recipe…

Trout with Mint and Bacon
3 slices bacon, diced
4 rainbow trout fillets
1/4 cup flour
1 tablespoon canola oil (opt.)
1/4 cup mint, chiffonade
lemon
salt and pepper to taste.

1. In a large skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until the fat renders and the bacon begins to crisp. Remove the bacon from the pan to drain on a paper towel, but save the fat.

2. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Dust with flour and spank off any excess.

3. Reheat the pan with the bacon fat over medium high flame. If you don't have enough fat you can add a little canola oil. Add the trout fillets, flesh side down, and cook for 5 minutes on the first side, until the flesh is lightly golden. Flip over and cook for 3 minutes on the skin side.

4. Place the fish on a serving platter. Sprinkle bacon and mint on top. Squeeze lemon over the whole thing.

Chile and Cilantro Stuffed Tilapia

Delicious. Easy. Economical. Sustainable. Does it get any better than that?

I’ve noticed lately that I’ve been eating less fish. Not because I don’t love it… but because it’s generally so expensive. ($18 per pound for Tuna?? Are you kidding me ??) And in these tough times, I’m watching every penny. Tilapia costs less than $10/pound for boneless fillets, and a 4 oz. portion is surprisingly generous. It has a mild flavor that’s enhanced by the seasoning. And Tilapia from the Americas (north, central or south) is on the safe list by the Monterrey Bay Seafood Watch.

Chile and Cilantro Stuffed Tilapia

serves 4 – 6

Seasoning: 2 tsp. each: chopped thyme (opt), parsley (opt), cilantro, jalapenos, scallions, chives (opt.), garlic, onions
6 tilapia fillets, preferably red snapper, mahi-mahi or tilapia)
2 limes, juiced
1cup panko or plain bread crumbs
1 tbs. oil
salt and pepper to taste

1. Combine ingredients for seasoning mixture. In a separate bowl, mix bread crumbs and oil.

2. Put fish on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

3. Season fish with salt and pepper. Squeeze lime juice over the filets. Divide the seasoning across the fillets and rub on top. Finally, sprinkle the bread crumbs on top.

4. Bake in 350 oven for 10 minutes, or until cooked through.
Tilapia-post

Cook. Eat. Grow? (Recipe: Salmon Teriyaki)

Teriyaki-salmon
When I started this blog, I wanted to write all about the food cycle – from growing and raising our food in the fields, to cooking it in the kitchen, and finally enjoying the meal around the dining room table. When I referred to “grow”, I specifically thought of the beginning of the cycle – what happens in the fields; and not of the end of the cycle: what happens to our bellies.

With several friends on diets, I’m reminded that I can still afford to lose a few pounds, too, and have pulled out a few healthy recipes of my own.

One of my favorites is Salmon Teriyaki with Soba Noodle Salad. The teriyaki sauce has minimal added fat and makes a great marinade for the fish and dressing for the noodles. Soba noodles, which are high in fiber and protein, offer a great alternative to steamed rice or even brown rice. And mixed with julienne of vegetables, you have a complete meal.

Salmon Teriyaki with Soba Noodle Salad

1 teaspoon butter

1teaspoon chopped garlic

1teaspoon chopped ginger

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup sugar

2 tablespoons mirin

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

4 – 6 oz. salmon or arctic char files

8 oz. soba noodles

Lots of Julienne vegetables: carrots, scallions, cucumbers, red peppers and avocadoes are my favorites

1 kaffir lime leave, finely chopped

1. In a small skillet, melt butter over medium flame. Add garlic and ginger and cook until they become aromatic, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the soy sauce, sugar, mirin and vinegar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Continue cooking on high heat for about 1 minute or until sauce starts to thicken. Let cool.

3. Use half the teriyaki sauce to marinade the salmon.

4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add soba noodles. Cook according to package directions (this can vary from 4 minutes to 8 minutes, depending on the brand). When noodles are cooked, drain and rinse under cold running water.

5. Toss noodles with remaining teriyaki sauce, vegetables and kaffir lime leaves.

6. Put salmon in an over-proof dish and broil for 5 minutes, or until the teriyaki starts to brown and glaze the fish. Turn the oven to bake to finish cooking the fish – timing depends on the thickness of the filets, but can take another 5 minutes.

Tuna Burger Makes Five

5-burgers

When Four Burgers opened in Central Square last summer, they featured… you guessed it…. four burgers: beef, turkey, salmon and veggie. They had always intended for a feature fifth, seasonal burger. But with the hecticness of starting a new business, they had to delay that… until now!

Finally, with a little help from Julia Shanks Food Consulting , they have added that fifth burger to the menu.

Ahi Tuna, Nicoise Style — with Roasted Tomatoes, Olive Tapenade
and Green Bean Slaw

Perhaps, I’m a little bias, but it’s a great burger. Fresh herbs season the tuna. Can you see they cooked it beautifully to medium rare? It’s topped with an olive tapenade and slow roasted tomatoes. The slaw on the side pulls in the green beans typical with a nicoise salad.

You can visit Four Burgers at 704 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA.

They are also taking requests for other burger specials. Leave a comment here, or email: info@fourburgers.com

For those of you who don’t live in the Cambridge area, you can make your own tuna burger at home:

Tuna Burgers
2 pounds fresh tuna, finely chopped
2 scallions, cut into rounds
1 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Tapenade
1 cup pitted nicoise olives
1 anchovy filet
1 teaspoon capers
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive

Green Bean Slaw
1/4 pound haricot verts or green beans
1 cup shredded cabbage
1 carrot, peeled and shredded
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon tarragon, chopped
1 teaspoon capers, chopped
salt and pepper to taste

6 buns, toasted
6 slices tomatoes

1. Gently mix the tuna with remaining burger ingredients. Divide into 6 portions and form into patties, about 1 inch thick. Set aside.

2. Put tapenade ingredients in a food processor and blend until coarsely chopped.

3. Combine all ingredients for the slaw. Set aside.

4. Heat a grill pan over high heat. Sear tuna on one side for 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Cook on second side for 3 more minutes.

5. Serve burgers on a toasted bun with a smear of tapenade and a slice of tomato. Garnish the plate with the slaw.

The Savant Project – Special Promotion

 
My friend Benny opened The Savant Project in Mission Hill last year. We met in business school, both coming from the hospitality industry (he was a bartender, I was a chef), and became fast friends. Though I knew I didn't want to be in the restaurant business anymore, I was intrigued by his vision of restaurants and lounges (a "lounge empire" he modestly called it).

Benny has succeeded in creating a lounge: the vibe is hip and funky, blending perfectly with this fringe neighborhood — on the edge of the prominent Longwood Medical Center and the up-and-coming Mission Hill. Hospital employees mingle with young hipsters. The tiny kitchen produces fun and funky dishes, variations on the typical bar food… a steak frite with yuca fries instead of the typical potato, quesadillas trios with homemade mango salsa, and a home-made veggie burger. They have received props from Boston Magazine (Where to Dine and Best of Boston Awards), the Phantom Gourmet, the Boston Globe and Chronicle.

When Benny asked if I could help streamline the menu, I had to say yes. How fun to be part of his exciting venture! Benny's two big challenges: the food costs were too high and the kitchen could not execute the menu fast enough on busy nights. We made a few adjustments with the current recipes (like slicing the pork tenderloins into medallions before cooking — yielding more yummy 5-spice crust and cooking faster). We also removed some of the slow selling items and replaced them with new dishes that cook quickly and have a lower food cost – we were even able to reduce the prices on some of the menu items!

The general approach to the menu was to simplify. The menu consisted of numerous items some of which did not move as quickly as we would have liked. As opposed to having numerous options all the time (which kills labor costs from excessive prep, and food costs due to waste and spoilage) the menu is focusing on its strengths. Now, the menu will switch out about 30% of the items every two months in order to provide the clientele with the options they so desire!

The most popular addition: Beer Battered Fish Tacos with a Chipotle Slaw and Guacamole. Although intended for the dinner menu (where it thrives) it also does quite well on the lunch menu. Priced at $15 it is cheaper than the traditional dinner entrees. It is priced higher than the veggie burger or the stuffed burger, however. These were the two most popular (and most affordable) dinner entrees. When a customer switches to the fish tacos from the burger, that means an extra $1.50 of revenue per entree or an 11% increase in food sales!

This month Benny is going on an all out promotions spree with the new changes to the menu. With the new menu in place, the restaurant now does three full turns for dinner with comfort and ease, and Benny plans to fully take advantage of this! Some of the promotions include 2 entrees and a bottle of wine for $50 any Sunday, Monday. In addition there is a 3 course NYE Dinner with a champagne toast and a glass of wine for $33.09 (designed by my friend and former co-worker Estuart Rojas) and he is even beginning a late night menu Thursday through Saturday till close with all items under $5. Enjoy some music and get some quality grub….in Mission Hill! (who knew?)

He is also happy to offer anyone who says the code words "we love Hoolia" (his idea, not mine) a complementary tapa with your meal or even just a drink! And Benny insisted I add his little blurb, "If you read Julia's blog and come on in, please ask for me! I'm here all the time and Julia has helped out so much (often just for bottles of wine…) that I owe her friends and fans the best of times."

And for those of you not in Boston, here's the recipe for the famed Fish Tacos.

Fish Tacos

¼ cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup sour cream
½ tsp. ground cumin
1 chipotle (or more to taste)

½ cup shredded red cabbage or lettuce
2 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
¼ cup finely sliced red onion
1 jalapeno, seeded and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
¼ cup chopped cilantro
salt and lime to taste

1 cup flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
1 tsp. salt, or more to taste
1 cup beer
1 egg
12 6-in soft, white corn tortillas
Canola for frying
1 lb. fluke, cod or any firm white fleshed fish, cut into strips 1 inch wide and 2 -3 inches long

2 limes, cut into wedges

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, cumin and chipotle salsa. Toss in cabbage, tomatoes, red onion, jalapeno, garlic and cilantro. Season to taste with salt and lime juice.

2. In a large bowl, make a beer batter: whisk together 2/3 cup flour, cornmeal, salt, egg and beer.

3. Preheat oven to warm, or its lowest setting. Spread tortillas on a baking sheet and cover with a damp towel. Place in oven.

4. Pour 1 inch of peanut oil into a deep saucepan and place over medium-high heat. When it is hot enough to brown a bread crumb, begin coating the fish. Dust fish with the flour, and then dip into the batter. Add the pieces, one by one, to the oil. Fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary. Drain on plate lined with paper towel. Repeat process with remaining fish.

5. Fill each warm tortilla with 2-3 pieces of fish, a generous spoon of the cabbage slaw. Squeeze a wedge of lime and sprinkle a little salt over the filled tortilla. Fold in half and serve.

More Adventures in Smoking: Bluefish

Bluefish_01-01_0989

There are several truths in my culinary world: everything fried tastes better and everything smoked tastes better. Obviously, there are exceptions to the rule – thinking about all the fresh vegetables coming out of the garden (good!) and about that smoked oil (bad!).

Bluefish fits perfectly into that rule. Some people enjoy it fresh, but with a strong, oily flavor it’s better suited to smoking and more universally liked that way. I love having little snacks in the fridge for when unexpected guests come over, and smoked bluefish is a great option. Whole Foods sells smoked bluefish pâté but I was wholly disappointed to discover it contains high fructose corn syrup. The only solution is to make my own.

Smoked Bluefish Pâté
To smoke bluefish: Season ½ pound filet with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Start a charcoal fire on the grill. Meanwhile, soak wood chips in water. When charcoal fire starts to fade, prepare to smoke and move quickly: Drain wood chips and toss on top of the embers. Replace the grate on top of the grill and put the bluefish on the grate… away from the fire. Close the grill and the vents on top – leave the vents on the bottom open. Let fish smoke for 30 minutes or more.

In a food processor fitted with a plastic blade, combine bluefish with 4 ounces cream cheese, 1 tablespoon brandy, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt and black pepper. Pulse to combine. Stir in chopped scallions. Serve with crackers.

All Purpose Autumn – Squash Puree

Skate-squash

Acorn and butternut squashes are quintessential autumn. Not only are they delicious and nutritious, the burnt orange color beckons the crisp autumn air. My favorite preparation: pureed. In this form it is so versatile:
– Served as a side dish with pork, skate or duck.
– Thickened with parmesan and bread crumbs for a ravioli or cannelloni filling
– Thinned with chicken stock for a soup

Above, I served the squash puree with fried sage, seared skate, port wine sauce and the first of the season arugula and mizuna from the garden. As a soup, this recipe won second place at the locavore banquet last month. And it couldn’t be easier.

Squash puree
1 acorn squash
1 butternut squash
1 tablespoon butter
1 royal gala apple, cored and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon Madras curry powder
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste

1. Slice squash in half from the root to the stem. Put cut side down on a baking sheet with about ½ cup of water. Bake at 375F for 1 hour, or until squash are tender.
2. Meanwhile, heat a skillet over medium heat. Melt the butter and add the apples and onions. Saute until they start to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook for 2 minutes more.
3. Remove squash from oven, scoop out the seeds and discard. Scoop out the squash flesh and combine with apple/onion mix.
4. Puree in a food processor until smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
5. Adapt as desired.

That Extra Loving Touch:

  • If making soup, thin with 1 quart chicken stock
  • If making a filling, thicken with ¼ cup parmesan cheese and ¼ cup bread crumbs
  • Either way, garnish with Fried Sage