Julia – Page 28 – Grow. Cook. Eat.

August 9, 2009

May I take your order? (Recipe: Chicken Saltimbocca)

We aim to please here in the Shanks household. Come for dinner, tell us what you'd like to eat. Chicken? No problem. Would you like that with a European accent, Latin or Asian? With cheese, you say? Okay. And risotto? Sure.

Such was the conversation last Wednesday evening when I invited a friend over for dinner. Some days, I just can't find inspiration to create a menu. It was just as easy to have my friend decide rather than figure it out myself.

It took a few minutes to come up with a cohesive plan. Chicken Saltimbocca with Mushroom Risotto fit the bill perfectly. Better still, I could use some sage from the garden which has come back with a vengeance.

Chicken Saltimbocca

4 chicken breast cutlets, skin on.
1 ball fresh mozzarella, sliced
4 slices prosciutto
1 bunch fresh sage, leaves picked
3 cloves garlic, sliced.
1 tbs. plain oil
1 shallot, diced
1/2 cup sherry
2 tbs. butter
salt and pepper to taste.

1. Heat oil in sauté pan. Add sage leaves. Fry for 2 minutes, or until they begin to get crispy. Add garlic, and continue frying for 1 minute, or until garlic begins to turn brown. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper.

2. Over center of each chicken breast, season with salt and pepper and layer mozzarella, proscuitto and 1/8 of sage garlic mixture. Fold over to seal in filling.

3. Put chicken in an oven proof pan. Broil under a high heat until the skin blisters and turns golden, about 10 minutes (but keep a close eye). Turn the oven to bake and continue baking for another 5 minutes or until it's cooked through

4. When chicken is finished cooking, let it rest. To the chicken pan, add shallots and sherry. Bring wine to a boil over high heat, swirl in whole butter, and remove pan from heat.

5. Slice chicken into medallions, and serve with pan juices. Garnish with remaining fried sage and garlic.

August 5, 2009

Before the Blight Strikes

Home Depot should publicly apologize for killing the New England Tomato Crop.

This has not been a good summer for us. First, the June monsoons dampened our spirits, and now a blight found on tomato plants from “big box stores” is spreading, literally, with the wind and destroying tomato fields one by one. As any farmer or gardner will tell you, the zucchini and cucumbers are fine, but what we really care about are the tomatoes! You can read about the blight here and the plight of Waltham Fields Community Farm here.

Though I did not buy my tomato seedlings from Home Depot, I’m still noticing damage: yellow, wilted leaves with black spots. Two tomatoes, just days from perfection, had insect holes bored out from the center. I’m cutting back the leaves in hopes of preventing the spread.

I bought several tomato plants at Russo’s, and have a few from my friend Brett. Those from Brett were bred for disease resistance, and so far are proving the most hardy!

This week, I did manage to harvest a few ripe tomatoes — 4 black krim and 3 hybrid big boys. Though the plants are weighted heavy with fruit, who knows if they’ll survive to harvest… so just in case, I made my favorite, quintessential, summer sandwich, best to savor the tomatoes: Toasted Bread, Mayonnaise, Tomatoes and Salt.

Summer Perfection.

August 4, 2009

Something Old, Something New

This year, I planted several new crops: leeks, kale and beets.

I purchased the leeks on a whim. For $2, I got a little pot with dozens (if not hundreds) of leek-hopeful sprouts. Given my propensity to over-seed, I was skeptical about the density of the sprouts.

When I got home, I tried to tease apart the seedling and spread them out across 3 rows. The roots, already sufficiently established, knotted together. As I gingerly pulled them apart, the sprouts drooped…. I propped them up in the soil, half burying each seedling. Some leeks got sufficient room, others remained crowded. With all the rain, they managed to reinvigorate themselves.

This week, I tried to thin them some more. Can you believe, the roots are still tangled? Seriously, though, as I tried to pull out one of the larger leeks, some of the smaller ones came along for the ride.

With the fresh leeks and a plethora of fresh herbs from the garden, I recreated an herb rubbed pork tenderloin with melting leeks. Even better the second time around.

August 1, 2009

Beet Tales (Recipe: Beets with Cumin and Mint)

Many moons ago, my sister lived in Morocco to learn Arabic and teach music in a school for the blind. Traveling to a foreign country with a native is perhaps the best way to see a country and avoid the tourist traps and scams. Traveling with my sister at the end of her year was a close second. She spoke (and read) the language fluently, which allowed us to navigate the country and menus quite easily.

When we’d go out to eat, I’d let her order. I recall one café… We placed the typical order, “jusz jasz”: two chickens. The waiter quoted us a price: 80 dirham. What?? My sister pointed to the Arabic menu and with a flawless accent and perfect grammar, she questioned, “But the menu says it’s only 20.”

Another favorite was the vegetable salad. Beets, potatoes and carrots were sautéed in fruity olive oil, seasoned with cumin, coriander and black pepper.

This year, I grew beets for the first time. As the British name, "beetroot," would suggest, they grow underground so it's not obvious when they're ready to harvest. One farmer advised to inspect the shoulders of the root which protrudes from the soil. When they are several inches in diameter, the beets are ready. Also, the leaves should be broad and long. I began harvesting the beets last week, and every time I dug one up, it seemed too small. Alas, once you harvest, you can’t put them back.

With my baby beets, I sautéed them with olive oil, cumin and coriander, and tossed them with mint: the perfume took me back to the summer with my sister, wandering the country together.

Moroccan Style Beet Salad with Mint
5 baby beets or 2 medium beets
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon coriander
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste
8 large mint leaves, cut into chiffonade

1. Put beets in a pot of cold water. Bring to a boil over high flame. Cover pot and let simmer for 20 minutes, or until beets are tender – a butter knife will insert easily.
2. Remove beets from heat and let cool. The skins should peel off easily.
3. Cut beets into 8th.
4. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium flame. Add cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Cook until spices become aromatic. Add the beets, and warm through, tossing to coat in scented oil.
5. Remove from heat and serve. Sprinkle mint on top, and a squeeze of lemon.

July 30, 2009

In My Summer Garden

In the spring, I'm a little jealous of all my neighbors' gardens and the big burst of colors. I enjoy theirs, and then wait for mine. This week, with the onset of the ripe tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplant, comes my color burst.

July 30, 2009

The Aphids are Coming, The Aphids are Coming! (Recipe: Kale with Bacon and Cider)

My brother-in-law is a self described "fanatical" Jew. The degree to which he keeps kosher can be mind boggling even to the modern Orthodox.

A few weeks ago when we were together for a family vacation, I watched as he soaked his lettuces in salted water to wash them. As someone who loves salt, I think any way to better season a dish is pure genius (Empire Kosher Chicken is an example of a salt-soak improving the flavor).

When I queried him about this practice, he explained that the salt helps release any bugs that may still be trapped in the leaves. Since bugs are not kosher, he does not want to inadvertently eat them in his salad, lest he break the dietary laws.

The aphids have begun to attack the kale in my garden, and the kale is rapidly disintegrating. Ladybugs supposedly feast on these little critters, but I have yet to get some this season (um, John? Do you still want to share an order?)

In the meantime, a salt-soak seems to be the ideal solution until I cure this problem.

And in case you thought I, too, was an observant Jew, I added bacon to this recipe to dispel any confusion. If you do keep kosher (or just don't like pork), turkey bacon, or smoked turkey would be a great substitute.

Kale with Bacon and Cider
1/2 pound kale, washed
1 slice bacon, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic
2 tsp. cider vinegar
salt and pepper

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add salt. Add kale and cook for three minutes.
2. Drain Kale and cool. Coarsely chop.
3. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, add the bacon. Cook over medium heat until the fat begins to render and the edges start to brown. Add the garlic and continue cooking.
4. When garlic is aromatic, stir in the kale and cook for one minute more. Drizzle vinegar on top.
5. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

July 27, 2009

Suspiciously Delicious

Yep, that's Dina picking up a plastic bag of green stuff from a prearranged drop-off. Not suspicious at all, nope.

Hopefully, my neighbors don’t call the cops on her. This is Cambridge, MA, after all. And we know what could happen. Despite all the controversial media, I left a bag of mint on the front porch for Dina. I think I’m safe, though, since my neighbors also partake of my bounty of herbs: I regularly find 4-year old Oliver in the mint patch having a little snack.

Lord knows, I can’t possibly consume all the herbs on my own. I enjoy what I can throughout the summer, and freeze more for the winter. But even still the garden produces more than I can enjoy. I joke that I’ll start a farm-stand at the end of my driveway and peddle my excess herbs (and vegetables).

On Saturday evening, Dina returned for dinner with Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. Seems like a fair trade, don’t you think?

This recipe comes courtesy of www.epicurious.com. It sounds like the same as the one Dina used.

Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
2 cups packed fresh mint leaves
2 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
3 ounces fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened)

In a blender blend cream, milk, and mint until mint is finely chopped. In a saucepan bring cream mixture just to a boil and cool 15 minutes. Whisk in eggs and sugar and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened and a thermometer registers 170°F. (Do not let custard boil or it will curdle.) Pour custard through a fine sieve into a bowl. Chill custard, its surface covered with plastic wrap, until cold, at least 3 hours, and up to 1 day. Chop chocolate. Freeze custard in an ice-cream maker. Transfer ice cream to an airtight container and stir in chocolate. Put ice cream in freezer to harden.

July 24, 2009

The First Tomato (Recipe: Israeli Salad)

Some people mark the start of summer at Memorial Day, others on June 21st. For me, summer officially begins with the first tomato from the garden.

Though the first tomato appeared in early June, the miserable rains and cool weather that followed thwarted any chance of an early July first harvest. A few weeks off “schedule,” I’m picking the first tomato.

Of course, one tomato does not make a salad, much less a meal. Thankfully, on the same day the first cucumber is large enough to pick also.

With a few scallions and fresh dill, I have all the fixings for a favorite summertime salad, and enough to serve as a side for dinner.

Israeli Salad
In Israel, this salad of chopped tomatoes and cucumbers is usually served at breakfast with smoked, cured or pickled fish. It’s also a great condiment for falafel, or tossed with Israeli Cous Cous for a refreshing side salad. This recipe is also featured in Even’ Star Organic Farm’s Summer Cookbook.

2 of your favorite heirloom tomatoes
1 small cucumbers
3 scallions
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 ½ teaspoon fresh dill or lemon basil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Coarsely chop tomatoes. Toss with salt and pepper. Let sit for 5 minutes

2. Meanwhile, coarsely chop cucumbers (unpeeled).

3. Drain excess liquid from tomatoes. Toss with remaining ingredients.

4. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt, pepper, lemon and/or olive oil.

Garden to Table: 10 minutes

July 22, 2009

Spicy Chick Peas

I have a few friends who make their food preferences very clear. Truthfully, I like that… with all the options of things to cook for dinner, I appreciate the focus this gives me. I know Dina likes Smoked Chicken salad, and Matthew likes lamb.

Last week, we planned a picnic at Tanglewood, and I knew what to bring: Smoked Chicken Salad for Dina, and Tandoori Lamb for Matthew. Sure, I had just made it a few times already in the past month, but why not make the guy happy.

I often serve the lamb with raita or mint chutney. But with the first jalapeno in the garden, I decided to make another recipe from Singapore Food, Spicy Chickpeas.

Spicy Chickpeas
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons ghee or oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger
1 green chili chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 cups cooked chickpeas
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 sprig cilantro for garnish

1. Heat a large skillet with oil. Add onions, garlic, ginger and jalapeno, and cook for 10 minutes or until onions soften. Add spices and cook until aromatic, about 2 minutes.

2. Add chickpeas and ½ cup of water. Cover and let simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove cover and continue cooking until liquid is absorbed.

3. Stir in tomatoes, and cook just until they lose their raw edge.

4. Remove from heat and stir in cilantro. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

July 20, 2009

The Quest for Authentic (Recipe: Tandoori Chicken)

When I travel abroad, I like to buy cookbooks that feature the local cuisine. Usually, they're unavailable in the US. And especially with the books purchased in Asia, they have not been tailored to the “western kitchen.” True or not, I think the recipes will be more authentic to the region. And I feel confident enough in both my cooking skills and ability to find the unusual ingredients in the Boston markets that I am unfettered by these recipes.

Thanks to the magic of the internet, Wendy Hutton's books are now available in the US. Her recipe for tandoori chicken is exceptional in flavor and tastes as good as anything I’ve eaten in a restaurant. I use this recipe for both lamb and chicken.

Mine little resembles in appearance the restaurant version since I don’t use food coloring and leave on the marinade when I cook it. I love the flavor of the marinade roasted in the butter and chicken juices, and could easily make a meal of those drippings slathered on naan. Since I don’t have a tandoori oven at home (and who does??), I cook it in a cast iron skillet on the charcoal grill outside. I was less pleased with her naan recipe and use the one from Stonyfield Farms that comes courtesy of Peter Franklin.

Tandoori Chicken
with no adaption from Singapore Food by Wendy Hutton

1 chicken, about 2 lbs.
1 tbs. melted butter or ghee

Marinade 1
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. turmeric
½ tsp. chili powder
¼ tsp. white pepper
pinch cloves
1 tsp. crushed garlic
1 ½ tbs. lemon juice

Marinade 2
4 tbs. plain yogurt
1 heaping tbs. cilantro, pounded
1 heaping tbs. mint, pounded
1 tbs. cumin
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. crushed fresh ginger
1 tsp. white vinegar
¼ tsp. cinnamon
1/3 tsp. cardamom
few drops of red food coloring (opt.)

1. Remove feet, head and skin from the chicken and make deep cuts in the thighs and breasts. Combine all ingredients for marinade 1 and rub well into the chicken. Leave in the refrigerator for 3 hours.

2. Combine ingredients for marinade 2 and rub evenly all over the chicken, making sure some of the marinade penetrates the slits. Leave in refrigerator for at least 6 hours.

3. Brush grill with ghee or butter and cook chicken over hot coals, brushing from time to time.

Yogurt Flatbread (Naan)
1 cup warm water
1 packet dry, active yeast
1 cup Stonyfield plain yogurt
2 teaspoons salt
5-6 cups all purpose flour
4 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

1. In a large mixing bowl, or in the bowl of an electric mixer (i.e. Kitchen Aid), combine the water, yogurt and butter, and yeast. Mix well and let sit for 5 minutes.
2. Mix together the salt and flour, and gradually add to the liquids. If the dough becomes too stiff to mix, add a bit of warm water, 1 tbs. at a time. Knead by hand for 5-6 minutes, until dough is smooth and shiny.
3. Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for +/- 20 minutes.
4. Portion dough into 2 ounce pieces, and roll very thin (tortilla like thickness) with a rolling pin. Layer rolled-out pieces on flour dusted parchment or waxed paper until ready to cook.
5. The Naan may be cooked in a skillet (cast iron is best…heat to medium high heat, ungreased) or even on a barbecue grill. Cook about 2 minutes per side, or until desired level of doneness. Dough will bubble and rise a bit as it cooks. This is normal.
6. Serve warm.