Vegetarian – Grow. Cook. Eat.

September 23, 2011

Free Samples (Recipe: Sweet Potato Burgers)

Last weekend, I was in DC for a book-signing with my dear friend, and co-author, Brett. When I do these types of events, I find the easiest way to lure people to my table – to talk with them about farmers’ markets (or promote the cookbook), is to offer a free sample. And since I had the opportunity to get produce from Brett's farm, it only seemed logical to use what he had.

But the options from the farm were limited. Even’ Star is still reeling from the effects of Hurricane Irene and Tropical Storm Lee. They've long since left the newsfeed, but that doesn’t mean that the tomatoes suddenly began producing again, or the melons became sweet again.

So we were limited to sweet potatoes, red peppers and eggplants. The weather is quickly turning to autumn, and even though there are still remnants of summer at many of the farmers’ markets, we decided to stick with a more fall-like recipe: sweet potato burgers.

If you’re a die-hard carnivore like me, it’s hard to get excited about veggie burgers. And to be honest, it’s not something i would make if left to my own devices. But these straightforward burgers are satisfying and delicious. The sweet potatoes have enough starch in them to maintain their shape. With the addition of black beans, they have plenty of protein. And fresh herbs brighten up the flavors.

We served these with our homemade ketchup and sour cream mixed with wild mushrooms.

Vegetarian Sweet Potato Burgers

From The Farmer’s Kitchen: The Ultimate Guide to Enjoying your CSA & Farmers’ Market Foods

2 tablespoons olive or canola oil
½ cup minced onions
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 cups cooked black beans, slightly mashed
¼ cup fresh oregano and/or basil
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne
2 cups cooked sweet potatoes, mashed (preferably a mix of different varieties)
salt and pepper to taste
Garnish: sour cream, cilantro and/or cheese.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Sauté the onions and garlic until just cooked. Immediately remove from heat.
Add the beans and oregano to the onions and garlic.
Sprinkle cayenne and salt on top of the mashed sweet potatoes. This helps to better disperse the seasoning.
Mix all ingredients together and chill for at least 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Once chilled, form patties approximately 1 ½-inch thick and 4-inches in diameter.
Heat a large skillet over high heat, add remaining oil. Fry patties until golden brown and crispy on both sides. Flip gently, as these burgers don’t hold together as well as meat patties do.
Serve with sour cream mixed with fresh cilantro, or any condiment that you would normally serve with a beef burger. Best to serve with toasted crusty bread such as baguette or Kaiser roll.

February 14, 2011

My Favorite Valentine (recipe: Cauliflower-Spinach Vichyssoise)

I’ve never been a fan of Valentine’s Day, with all the red hype and floral expectations.

Perhaps, I’m jaded by the years of working in restaurants. As my old boss used to say, “This one’s for the house.” The night is so busy that we plan menus based on ease and efficiency, not on elegance, creativity or fun. Restaurateurs just want to get to midnight with grace and minimal damage to the restaurants’ reputations for slow service.

Or maybe it’s the high expectations of the “holiday.” I love grocery shopping on Valentine’s Day, watching all the flustered boyfriends: grocery list in one hand, bouquet of flowers in the other. You can see the worry and determination in their eyes to create the most romantic, most delicious meal…

I’m sure I sound like the Grinch at Christmas, but I much prefer the authentic times, the idle Tuesday evenings… when the love and gratitude for our friends and loved ones shows off effortlessly.

Boyfriends have come and gone, and my favorite Valentine’s Days remain the evenings I’ve spent with friends: Sitting by the fireplace with a lovely meal and bottle of wine. And eating ice cream out of the carton for dessert.

Wishing you happiness and love, today and always.

CAULIFLOWER – SPINACH VICHYSSOISE
This soup is terrific served hot or cold.

3 tablespoon Butter
1 shallot — peeled and chopped
½ apple, peeled, cored and diced
1 celery stalk
4 garlic cloves
1 head cauliflower – cored and chopped
2 leek – washed
¼ cup white wine
6 cups water
1 cup spinach
1/4 cup cream (opt.)

Heat a large pot over medium flame. Melt butter. Add shallots, apple, celery, garlic, cauliflower and leeks. Sauté until cauliflower begins to turn limp and brown a little. Deglaze with white wine. Cover vegetables with water, and simmer until soft, about 20 minutes.

Purée soup with cream, and return all but 1 cup to pot. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Purée remaining soup with spinach. Put in a separate pot.

To serve: ladle white vichyssoise into bowl. Ladle green vichyssoise into the center.

That extra loving touch:
Make vanilla oil to garnish soup: Heat ½ cup canola oil with ½ teaspoon curry powder and ½ vanilla bean. Simmer over low heat for 3 minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes.

Soup Photograph: Ellen Callaway. Food Styling: Me.

August 31, 2010

Creamy Polenta with Fresh Tomatoes

At Restaurant Nora (my first job out of culinary school 17 years ago), I worked the grill station. I was responsible for cooking and plating any entrée that was grilled as well as the vegetables that garnished the entrees from the sauté station. On a usual night I was responsible for 5 of the 10 entrees. By my rough calculation, I cooked 65% of the 200 main dishes that went out of the kitchen. Oh, and I was also cooked the staff meal. I would serve 10 – 12 plates of left-over chicken, steak or fish from the previous night. The waiters swooped into the kitchen to grab their meals. I had no time to eat as I was busy setting up my station.

On one night, Nora decided to test my muster, and assigned to my station nine of the ten entrees. Effie, the sauté cook, had far more experience than me, but could only watch as I spun in circles trying to keep up with all the orders. He helped when he could, but unfortunately, there just wasn’t enough room behind the grill for both of us.

As the orders began to wind down, I fixed myself a little snack: one of my favorite meal — creamy polenta with steamed carrots and demi-glace on top. It was satisfying without being heavy.

I still love creamy polenta, even though it reminds me of the abuse at Nora’s. I guess it’s that good! With the bumper crop of tomatoes from the garden, I’m using them as a sauce, taking a departure from the Nora days.

Creamy Polenta with Fresh Tomatoes
Most recipes for polenta suggest a ratio of 4 parts liquid to 1 part polenta. For my taste, the polenta gets too firm. I prefer a 6:1 ratio. And given the continued abundan ce of kale in my garden, I could help but sauté a bunch with garlic for a garnish.

3 cups liquid: any combination of chicken stock, water, or milk. I prefer 1 cup of each
½ cup coarse corn meal (grits or polenta, do not use instant)
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. pepper
½ cup freshly grated parmesan or asiago cheese

1-2 tbs. butter
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 small shallot, minced
4 tomatoes, cut in half, seeds removed and diced
¼ cup white wine
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Combine the liquid in a pot with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and whisk in polenta.

2. Continue whisking polenta until it starts to thicken. Then switch to a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Stir frequently, being sure to scrape the bottom. Continue cooking for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, start the tomato sauce: Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the butter. When it’s melted, add the garlic and shallots and cook for 1 – 2 minutes… just until soft. Add the wine and tomatoes. Continue cooking for about 10 minutes, or until tomatoes start to thicken. The timing depends on how watery your tomatoes are. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. When polenta is tender, stir in the cheese. Serve with tomato sauce. Garnsih with basil if available

December 21, 2009

Frost Bitten (Recipe: Savory Greens and Potatoes)

photo credit: Christine Bergmark, Even' Star Organic Farm

The process of breeding greens for winter-tolerance takes many years. Each spring, after the grueling winter winds have dissipated and the snow has melted, Farmer Brett inspects his fields for survivors. In a field of thousands of plants, maybe 10 have withstood the elements. Before the plants begin to flower, he transplants them within 50 feet of each other. When the plants flower, several weeks later, the bees can pollinate them. And after the plants flower, they generate seeds for subsequent years’ plantings. After several years of breeding out weak plants, Brett has robust and flavorful plants.

Last week, Brett came north to the New England Fruit and Vegetable Conference to talk about cold hardy greens and how New England farmers can adapt this process to the more severe winters.

He brought with him several varieties of greens for sampling and also for cooking dinners at the end of the meetings. The greens are spicy and full of flavor and texture. The overnight frosts that Maryland experienced (before the two feet of snow from two days ago), causes a chemical reaction in the plants which makes them sweeter.

The recipe for Savory Potatoes and Greens comes from his Winter CSA cookbook. I used basil from my garden (that I froze in August) to season the dish.

SAVORY VEGETARIAN GREENS AND POTATOES
3 average sized russet potatoes, washed but with skins on
salted water to cover
1 bag (gallon) any of our cooking greens
3 – 6 T mix of olive and neutral oils
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
1 t black pepper
½ to 1 t salt
½ bunch scallions
fresh herbs, or 1 t dried oregano, basil, or rosemary

1. Gently boil potatoes until just cooked (skins aren’t all coming off, and a sharp knife inserted into spud encounters a teeny resistance). Remove from pot with a slotted spoon. Let cool, then chop into bite-sized pieces. Use same water to barely blanch greens, and be sure to shock in an ice bath. Drain in colander, and push out all extra water. Chop coarsely. Set aside. In a heavy skillet (works best in seasoned cast iron), sauté onion and garlic ‘til barely soft. Add potatoes and fry, scraping pan bottom often and adding more oil if needed. When potatoes have started to brown, add greens, herbs, and chopped scallion. Cook two minutes more. If needed, season further before serving: this should be hearty, not bland.

2. Can nicely be served with a dollop of sour cream, or of home-made guacamole, or with grated cheddar or Monterey jack, on top. Also really good with 1 teaspoon whole cumin seed (added to skillet right before spuds go in) in lieu of or in addition to other herbs. Hot peppers complement the latter approach well.

August 17, 2009

The Best of Times, The Worst of Times

Early in the summer I began noticing worms in the soil. I knew the soil started out in excellent condition, 3 summers ago, when I imported 5 tons of compost, but worried that I hadn’t sufficiently amended the soil in the subsequent seasons. The worms told me that I was doing okay.

Over the years, I have tried and given up on growing heirloom tomatoes. I’m lucky if I harvest one tomato at the end of September. Despite my track-record, I plant at least one heirloom every year. This year, I planted three. And so far, I’ve had 10 tomatoes! It must be the worms.

The threat of blight still looms. I regularly trim back any yellow spotted leaves that show signs of disease. The foliage is thinning, but the tomatoes stalks are heavy with fruit.

And I’m tense. Because, in fact, they are too heavy. The plants are drooping, bending the stalks despite all my efforts to stake them.

I wonder if the tomatoes will get the required nutrients and energy from the plant with a weakened structure.

The tomatoes still ripen on the vine (i.e. they don’t rot), so I continue to enjoy them: lots of tomato/mayo sandwiches and a few tomato sauces.

Mediterranean Eggplant and Tomatoes
With the glut of eggplant and tomatoes, I made a Mediterranean style dish. With basil, it takes an Italian bent and pairs beautifully with grilled steak and potatoes. With dill, the Turkish inspiration takes over making it perfect with mackerel and basmati rice. The dill is in short supply and I’m reserving it for pickles. I decided to lean Italian.

¼ cup plain oil
5 Japanese eggplants, sliced in half lengthwise
2 tablespoons currants or raisins
2 tablespoons pine nuts or pistachios
1 tablespoon butter
¼ cup white wine
1 shallot, peeled and diced
1 large garlic clove, peeled and diced
2 cups diced tomatoes – whatever you have in your garden
2 tablespoons fresh basil or 1 tablespoon fresh dill
Salt and pepper to taste

1. In a large skillet heat oil over high heat. Add eggplant to pan, cut side down, and cook until a deep brown. Flip over and cook on the other side until the eggplant is soft, about 1 more minute. It’s important to cook the eggplant in a single layer, so you may need to cook them in batches. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt.

2. When eggplants are cooked, pour off the oil from the pan. Return the pan to a medium heat. Add the pine nuts and raisins and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, or just until the pine nuts start to brown. Remove from heat and drain.

3. Wipe the pan clean, return to medium high heat, and add the butter. When the butter melts and shallots and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the wine and reduce. Add the tomatoes. Cook until the tomatoes have released their liquid and start to thicken. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Just before serving, stir in the fresh herbs.

When serving, sprinkle toasted pine nuts and currants on top.

August 1, 2009

Beet Tales (Recipe: Beets with Cumin and Mint)

Many moons ago, my sister lived in Morocco to learn Arabic and teach music in a school for the blind. Traveling to a foreign country with a native is perhaps the best way to see a country and avoid the tourist traps and scams. Traveling with my sister at the end of her year was a close second. She spoke (and read) the language fluently, which allowed us to navigate the country and menus quite easily.

When we’d go out to eat, I’d let her order. I recall one café… We placed the typical order, “jusz jasz”: two chickens. The waiter quoted us a price: 80 dirham. What?? My sister pointed to the Arabic menu and with a flawless accent and perfect grammar, she questioned, “But the menu says it’s only 20.”

Another favorite was the vegetable salad. Beets, potatoes and carrots were sautéed in fruity olive oil, seasoned with cumin, coriander and black pepper.

This year, I grew beets for the first time. As the British name, "beetroot," would suggest, they grow underground so it's not obvious when they're ready to harvest. One farmer advised to inspect the shoulders of the root which protrudes from the soil. When they are several inches in diameter, the beets are ready. Also, the leaves should be broad and long. I began harvesting the beets last week, and every time I dug one up, it seemed too small. Alas, once you harvest, you can’t put them back.

With my baby beets, I sautéed them with olive oil, cumin and coriander, and tossed them with mint: the perfume took me back to the summer with my sister, wandering the country together.

Moroccan Style Beet Salad with Mint
5 baby beets or 2 medium beets
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon coriander
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste
8 large mint leaves, cut into chiffonade

1. Put beets in a pot of cold water. Bring to a boil over high flame. Cover pot and let simmer for 20 minutes, or until beets are tender – a butter knife will insert easily.
2. Remove beets from heat and let cool. The skins should peel off easily.
3. Cut beets into 8th.
4. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium flame. Add cumin, coriander, salt and pepper. Cook until spices become aromatic. Add the beets, and warm through, tossing to coat in scented oil.
5. Remove from heat and serve. Sprinkle mint on top, and a squeeze of lemon.

July 22, 2009

Spicy Chick Peas

I have a few friends who make their food preferences very clear. Truthfully, I like that… with all the options of things to cook for dinner, I appreciate the focus this gives me. I know Dina likes Smoked Chicken salad, and Matthew likes lamb.

Last week, we planned a picnic at Tanglewood, and I knew what to bring: Smoked Chicken Salad for Dina, and Tandoori Lamb for Matthew. Sure, I had just made it a few times already in the past month, but why not make the guy happy.

I often serve the lamb with raita or mint chutney. But with the first jalapeno in the garden, I decided to make another recipe from Singapore Food, Spicy Chickpeas.

Spicy Chickpeas
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons ghee or oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger
1 green chili chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 cups cooked chickpeas
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 sprig cilantro for garnish

1. Heat a large skillet with oil. Add onions, garlic, ginger and jalapeno, and cook for 10 minutes or until onions soften. Add spices and cook until aromatic, about 2 minutes.

2. Add chickpeas and ½ cup of water. Cover and let simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove cover and continue cooking until liquid is absorbed.

3. Stir in tomatoes, and cook just until they lose their raw edge.

4. Remove from heat and stir in cilantro. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

June 16, 2009

Spring’s Last Hurrah

I've never had much luck growing peas… I usually console myself with the tendrils and buy English peas at the market. For Spring's last hurrah, I sauteed freshly shelled peas with morels, asparagus and tarragon (from the garden). I tossed it all with fresh pasta; a little butter, lemon juice and freshly grated parmesan rounded out the dish.

May 29, 2009

Asparagus Vichyssoise with Saut éed Morels

I never know how much fiddleheads and morels I’ll be able to get each year, so I always make sure to cook them at least once each Spring. But with the temperamental prices and my cooking schedule, I never know if the second opportunity will arise.

The first cooking, I keep simple. I want to savor the flavors and textures, uncluttered. The second cooking, I tend to be more “creative.” An elegant way to serve the morels is atop an asparagus vichyssoise.

Asparagus Vichyssoise with Sautéed Morels

1 qt. chicken or vegetable broth
1 tbs. olive oil
2 small leeks, chopped
1/4 cup potatoes, diced
24 asparagus spears, trimmed, tips reserved
2 sprigs parsley
1 cup spinach
salt and pepper to taste

Morels
1/2 pound morels, wiped clean
1 large shallot, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
1/4 cup dry sherry

For the Soup:
1. Heat olive oil in large pot. Sweat leeks and potatoes. Add asparagus, parsley and chicken broth. Simmer for 15 minutes or until asparagus and potatoes are tender.

2. Put 1/4 cup spinach in the bottom of a blender. Ladle soup into blender and puree. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Repeat process until all the soup is pureed.

3. Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the asparagus tips for 1 minute. Drain and run under cold water to lock in the color.

4. Garnish soup with asparagus tips and morels.

For the Morels:
1. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the morels. Sprinkle shallots, garlic and thyme on top. Season with salt and pepper. Let cook for 3 minutes without stirring or shaking. Stir a little and cook for another minute.

2. Deglaze the pan with sherry. Cook for another two minutes until the sherry is absorbed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

If I have a third chance, I will serve sautéed morels with seared foie gras. I still have a small piece left over in the freezer.

May 27, 2009

Quintessential Spring: Fiddlehead Ferns

Though summer unofficially started this past weekend, the farmers’ markets and produce aisles still say spring. I don’t let the season pass without getting at least one taste of those wild ingredients that only grow this time of year – ramps, fiddleheads, morels and shad roe. And, of course, I fill up on artichokes and asparagus. Even though they are available year-round, their flavors peak now.

My favorite spring mélange is asparagus with morels and fiddleheads. Earthy, sweet, crunchy and creamy flavors that marry perfectly. Morels are conical shaped mushrooms that grow in pine forests, and spring fields after a winter forest fire. Occasionally they grow in my garden, too.

The fiddleheads are tightly coiled ferns that haven’t unfurled yet. The coils push through the soil trapping all sorts of dirt in them. This makes cleaning them a bit of a challenge – I soak them in several changes of water, transforming them from murky brown to bright green. They are rumored to have toxins in them which necessitate a par-boiling.

I prepare the fiddleheads simply: after soaking them in three changes of water, I boil them for 2 minutes in salted water. Let them cool in an ice bath to lock in the bright green color. I then sauté them with olive oil and garlic. I serve them with asparagus or as a side dish for salmon. They have a creamy, nutty and earthy texture and a nice crunch too!

Up next: Asparagus Vichyssoise with Morels and Fiddleheads.