Walking the Fields (Recipe: Hand-Rolled Pasta with Crab and Tomatoes

When I arrive on the farm, Brett takes me on a tour of the fields– showing me where the different crops are (with a rigorous schedule of crop rotation, it changes every year), what’s in season and what’s fading.  There’s a squash bug that’s feasting away on the courge longue de nice.  The cucumbers are starting to wane.  And the cherry tomatoes are just going crazy. He takes me into the packing room.  Crates and crates of tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes and melons are stacked high.

I also have time to ask my gardening questions… the aphids on my kale and Brussels sprouts continue to plague me.  I’ve tried (organic) sprays, planting marigolds in between the rows and releasing lady bugs onto the plants to eat the aphids.  Nothing seems to work.  Brett suggested that I have too much nitrogen in my soil.  This makes sense since I tend to add a decent amount of compost to my soil every year because I don’t have the space for crop rotation. 

After all these years of visiting the farm, I have my own routine.  The first few days are focused on canning tomatoes.   Brett has set aside cases of tomatoes for me, and I start cutting them up.  Halved tomatoes for smoking and chunks for stewing.  A separate container of tomatoes get a very coarse chop and are destined for ketchup. 

Once the tomatoes are ready for cooking, Brett lights a fire under the 100 gallon kettle.  I cook the tomatoes in batches.  And while they’re simmering, we start another fire under the canner – a flat-bed kettle that will hold about 100 canning jars and enough water to cover them. 

Despite the plethora of tomatoes and the canning capacity of the farm’s outdoor kitchen, I only can about 60 jars of tomatoes.  I make 6 gallons of ketchup, but only take 1 gallon for my own stash.  I leave the rest for Brett and his crew.
Canned-tomatoes-2011
With the canning out of the way, I fall into a more lazy routine.  In the morning, I do my work – catching up on email, writing. I fix the crew’s lunch.  I pick okra in the afternoon.   Around 3pm, Brett heads back to the house, fixes us a few cocktail and we head over to the Bay to check on the crab pots.  Even with the warm weather, a few male crabs find their way into the pots every day.  The crabs make a great afternoon snack while I’m fixing dinner.  But when they become abundant, I shell the meat and make them into a meal.

Pasta-with-crab-and-tomatoe

Pasta with Tomato-Crab Sauce
4 live blue crabs
1 tbs. chopped garlic
1 small onion or shallot, peeled and chopped
¼ cup white wine
2 cups chopped or jarred tomatoes
1 – 2 eggplant cubed
1 tbs. butter
1 tbs. fresh basil
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste
¾ pound fettuccine (I rolled my own pasta)
Canola oil

1.    Scrub the crabs clean under cold water.  Dry on a paper towel.
2.     Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Add the oil and then the crabs, upside down.  Let the crab shells toast in the oil for a few minutes.  
3.    Add the onions and garlic to the crab pan and cook for 2 minutes until they begin to soften.  Then add the white wine and tomatoes.  If the pan seems dry, add 1/3 cup of water too.
4.    Cover the pan and let the crabs steam for about 5 minutes.  Remove crabs from pan, making sure to scrape off and save the tomatoes.
5.    Let the crabs cool and remove the meat.
6.    Cook the eggplant:  season cubes with salt and pepper.  Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Add a tablespoon of olive oil and then the eggplant.  Let sit for a few minutes so the eggplant can brown.  Toss and continue cooking until eggplant is tender.  Set aside.
7.    Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Cook pasta for 1 minute less than the package instructions
8.    While pasta is cooking, toss the crab meat and eggplant with the tomato sauce.  Add a pat of butter, basil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
9.    When pasta is done, drain.  Toss pasta with sauce.

From the farm: tomatoes, eggplant, basil, eggs
From the bay: crabs

No Bones About It (Pasta with Crabs and Tomatoes

Crab-pasta
So much flavor comes from the bones of meat, fish and the shells of crustaceans.  Resourceful chefs learned this long ago, and reserve what otherwise might be discarded to make flavorful stocks and sauces.

Many recipes suggest cooking meat and fish on the bone as another way to preserve some of that flavor.  Though, most bones aren’t palatable, they are easily removed (and discarded) once a dish is cooked. With a roast chicken, for example, you can just carve the meat off the bone before serving. 

With lobster, crabs and shrimp, I’ve seen chefs cook them first, remove the meat and then use the shells to make a stock.  While this maximizes every ounce of flavor, it requires many steps – cooking the lobster separately, then making the stock, and then using the stock to flavor a sauce.

A few weeks ago, whilst visiting a friend on the eastern shore of Maryland, I saw an ingenious way of simplifying this process.  He put live crabs in a skillet, toasted the shells and then added the remaining ingredients for his sauce.  The crab meat had the benefit of being cooked in the shell and the sauce had the benefit of crab shells cooking in that.  Brilliant!

Crabs-cooking-in-sauce

When the crabs were cooked, he removed them from the sauce, shelled the meat and added it back.   This technique would work well with any shellfish.

Pasta with Tomato-Crab Sauce

4 live blue crabs
1 tbs. canola oil
1 tbs. chopped garlic
1 small onion or shallot, peeled and chopped
¼ cup white wine
2 cups chopped or jarred tomatoes
1 tbs. butter
1 tbs. fresh basil
Salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste
¾ pound fettucine

  1. Scrub the crabs clean under cold water.  Dry on a paper towel.
  2.  Heat a large skillet over high heat.  Add the oil and then the crabs, upside down.  Let the crab shells toast in the oil for a few minutes.  
  3. Add the onions and garlic to the crab pan and cook for 2 minutes until they begin to soften.  Then add the white wine and tomatoes.  If the pan seems dry, add 1/3 cup of water too.
  4. Cover the pan and let the crabs steam for about 10 minutes.  Remove crabs from pan, making sure to scrape off and save the tomatoes.
  5. Let the crabs cool and remove the meat.
  6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Cook pasta for 1 minute less than the package instructions
  7. While pasta is cooking put the crab meat back in the tomato sauce.  Add a pat of butter, basil. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
  8. When pasta is done, drain all the liquid except ¼ cup.  Toss pasta with sauce.

 

Serve immediately.

Special thanks to Daniel for taking photos, and to Richard and Michael for an amazing meal and weekend!

Tales from the Farm (Recipe: Crab Scallion Pancakes)

Last week's New York Times featured a terrific article about Brett and his winter-hardy greens. For those of you who received seeds from me from the give-away several months back, these are them!

Pajeon

Thursday was the big canning day!

While Brett drove into DC to deliver the weekly CSA boxes, I got myself organized. Brett had set aside 60 pounds of tomatoes for me. Early in the week, I trimmed, cut and then smoked 30 pounds, and diced another 30 pounds. The outdoor kitchen was set up: a steam kettle to fit all 72 jars, a propane cook-top to sterilize the tomatoes and a 6 foot work table.

The steam-kettle was wood-powered. We built a fire in the furnace below, and waited patiently for the water to boil. I put all the jars in the water, and set aside the lids. The smoked tomatoes fit perfectly into the 3-gallon rondeau pot I brought down with me from Boston.

Canner

After the water boiled (with the jars) for 10 minutes, the jars were sterilized. I carefully pulled out each jar, poured out the water and laid them out on the table. One by one, I filled the jars with tomatoes, then wiped clean the rims, put a lid on and screwed the top on. Back into the water they went.

Next up, the diced tomatoes. Again, I boiled the tomatoes for 10 minutes, boiled the jars for 10 minutes, and then filled them just as I did for the smoked tomatoes.

With all the jars were filled, and back in the kettle, I covered the pot, refueled the fire, and let them pressure cook over-night. This final stage serves two purposes. First, it kills any remaining bacteria or live spores remaining inside the jars. Second, it creates a vacuum seal which prevents any future aerobic bacteria from developing.

Canned-tomatoes_02

For more details about canning you can read about last year's canning.

When Brett returned from his delivery, we were both exhausted. He from waking at 2 am to load the truck with the 300 boxes (each weighing about 15 – 20 pounds), driving to DC to deliver (and unload) to 7 different sites and then returning back to the farm. It feels lame to put my exhaustion in the same category as Brett, but I was tired from working in the hot, 90+ degree sun over an open fire stove.

Needless to say, we both needed a restorative. With cocktails in hand, we headed back to the Chesapeake Bay to check on the crab pots and take a swim. We had 6 keepers.

For the past several evenings, we had enjoyed the crabs as a little snacking, picking the meat from the shell. On this night, I shelled all the meat and made Korean style scallion pancakes with Crab and a Soy Dipping Sauce (Pa Jon or Pa Jeon). I generated about 2 cups of meat

PaJeon with Crab
These pancakes are thicker and doughier than the Chinese counterpart

1 cups rice flour
2 cup A/P flour
2 cups water
2 eggs
1 bunch scallions, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 tsp. salt
1 pound crab meat
1 tbs. cooking oil (canola or peanut)

Dipping Sauce
½ cup soy sauce
2 – 4 tbs. rice vinegar (depending on taste)
1 tbs. sesame oil
1 tsp. fresh sesame seeds
2 tbs. scallion rings
1 tsp. chili paste (more or less to taste)

1. In a bowl, whisk together the rice and A/P flour. Stir in the water and eggs to combine. Finally, gently mix in the salt, crab and scallions. Let rest.

2. In a separate (serving) bowl, combine the sauce ingredients. Adjust to your taste with vinegar, sugar and chili paste.

3. Heat a large, cast iron skillet over medium high heat. Add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Pour in a scant cup of batter and smooth out to 6 inches around. Cook until the edges crsip up. Flip over, and cook for 2 minutes more. Drain on a paper towel. Repeat this process, replenishing the oil in the pan as necessary, until all the batter is used.

4. Just before serving, you can spread out the pancakes into a single layer cookie sheet and reheat in a 450 oven for 10 minutes.

5. Cut into pie wedges and serve with dipping sauce.

Crabs: Girls and Boys

When I arrived at the farm, I was hot and tired from 9 hours of driving. Even with the A/C working in the car, the sun beating on me and the aggressive drivers wore me down.

The first order of business: check the crab traps and swim in the Chesapeake Bay.

The Bay is 1,500 feet to the east. His neighbor has graciously allowed Brett to hang 4 traps off his pier. When I visited last October, we only caught one crab – and she was a she. And in order to help preserve the crab population, the females are tossed back.

This time, we caught about a dozen. We still threw back the females, unless, of course they had just shed their shells, and we would enjoy them as soft shell crabs. The males were steamed and enjoyed simply.

It’s easy to distinguish between the females and the males: the apron on the underside clearly shows which is which.

Males:

Male-crab

Females:

Female-crab