Come On Over, The Water’s Fine (Recipe: Chicken Mole)

Chicken-mole

A major water-line ruptured a leak last Saturday, leaving the Boston area (and over 2 million homes) without potable water for three days. By some stroke of luck, Cambridge was spared from this fiasco as we have our own water supply. But Boston and 27 other communities were under order to boil water before using it for drinking, cooking and even washing dishes.

The next day, it was clear this “boil water order” might extend for several days… so I got on the phone and invited friends in affected areas over for dinner. With such short notice, I wanted to cook something simple and savory (and economical) that could easily scale up for a crowd.

At first blush, chicken enchiladas seemed like a great idea: a one dish casserole that would easily round out with a salad. But then I thought about how many steps actually go into enchiladas – making the sauce, cooking the filling, softening the tortillas and then rolling them. And, of course, serving enchiladas is really not an easy feat – unlike the restaurants that bake them in individual dishes, a casserole becomes very messy very quickly.

But I did like the idea of the mole sauce. The corn tortillas, with their distinctive lime flavor, and Monterey Jack cheese make a wonderful combination. I decided to reconstruct the dish is a way that’s easy to prepare and easy to serve.

There was no getting around making the mole sauce… and who would want to short-cut that anyway… with its rich, spicy complex flavors. And after making the same recipe for over 10 years, I’ve mastered making it in less than 30 minutes. Instead of using store bought tomatoes, I used a can of smoked tomatoes from last summer. I cooked chicken breasts, simply seasoned with salt and pepper, in the mole sauce.

If there’s one thing about mole I can say with conviction, it’s even better when paired with corn tortillas or other dish made with masa harina. Masa harina is corn meal that has been treated with lime and gives tortillas their distinctive flavor. It is also used in tamales and pupusas. I didn’t want to compromise the dish because I was too lazy to roll enchiladas. Instead, I made individual mounds of nachos – corn chips topped with melted jack cheese and scallions.

Chicken-Mole2 

In the end it was a delicious, elegant meal, and a wonderful last minute, throw-together dinner that took less than an hour to prepare.

From the Garden: Tomatoes and Scallions

Chicken Mole

6 chicken breasts, boneless skinless
mole sauce
corn tortillas
guacamole
monterey jack cheese
scallions

  1. Make the mole sauce.
  2. Season chicken with salt and pepper.
  3. Place chicken in a single layer in a casserole dish with a cover.  Ladle mole sauce on top.  Cover the dish.
  4. Bake chicken at 350F for 15 minutes, or until cooked through.
  5. Meanwhile, put corn tortillas on a cookie sheet in little piles.  Top with grated jack cheese.  Bake until cheese is melted.
  6. Serve chicken with nachos and guacamole.  Garnish with scallions. 

Persimmons Unpuckered

Persimmons
Most of my childhood food memories are good ones. I remember the first dish I ever made on my own: chicken simmered in wine and seasoned salt.  I remember my mom taking me for sushi lunch on the day before my Bat Mitzah. And I remember making a gingerbread house that required a late-night bicycle run to get marshmallow fluff.

And there were a few bad ones… mostly involving foods which had that astringent aftertaste reminiscent of overly tannic wines (though growing up I couldn’t have defined that). Pecans were the first, and I later discovered I was allergic anyways, and the other was persimmons. Those sweet, creamy winter fruits can be lusciously rich. But if they’re under-ripe they can make you pucker like you’ve been sucking on lemons.

I don’t scare easily, but I’ve shied away from them ever since… they can be expensive and didn’t want to open the persimmon only to discover it was astringently under ripe. When I was at the market last week, a little bird whispered in my ear, reminding me that Fuyu persimmons don’t have that problem and I decided to give them another whirl.

When I got home, I tentatively cut it open and gingerly nibbled at the meat. The flavor was somewhat cloying but no sign of tannins. It was tasty, but didn’t feel like a snacking fruit. Maybe it was just too sweet for me? It needed something to balance it.

As luck would have it, I had a perfectly ripe avocado at the same time. A quick Google search revealed that the two would pair beautifully along with a little miso, ginger and lemon. And into the kitchen I went to prepare dinner.

This was a quick and delicious dinner. But it requires careful planning to have a ripe avocado *and* a ripe persimmon at the same time. If you can do it, it’s well worth it!

Fuyu Persimmon and Avocado Salad with Roast Chicken
I served this on a bed of wilted spinach.

2 chicken breasts
1 ½ tbs. miso
1 tbs. chopped ginger
1 tsp. chopped garlic
¼ tsp. chili flakes
1 tsp. canola oil
Salt and pepper

1. Mix miso, ginger, garlic, chili and oil.
2. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Schmear miso all over chicken and let marinate for 20 minutes or more.
3. Bake chicken in a 350 oven for 20 minutes, flipping once after 10 minutes of cooking. While chcicken is cooking, prepare the salad
Salad
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tablespoons miso paste
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup olive oil
1 ripe avocado
1 ripe Fuyu persimmons, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

Whisk together lemon juice, miso, and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. This dressing should be a bit more acidic than you typically prefer as it will soften with the avocado and persimmon.
Halve, pit, and peel avocados, then thinly slice crosswise. Gently toss together avocados, persimmons, and dressing.

Serve salad with chicken.

Guacamole

Avocados

The strangest thing happened at the market the other day: I found perfectly ripe avocados! Lots of them! And they weren’t bruised or overripe.

Purchasing avocados can be a dicey proposition at best. I typically plan my shopping so that I purchase avocados 4 days before I need them. I buy them obviously under-ripe and leave them on my counter at home to gently ripen. Too often, “ripe” avocados at the market are mushy from other shoppers pressing them to test for ripeness. After several days of this, the avocados aren’t so much ripe as they are bruised. With guests coming for cocktails that night, I instantly filled my basket with 3 of them to make guacamole.

This was an unexpected addition to my Italian themed menu. With that in mind, I made the guacamole with a European accent… seasoning with basil and lemon instead of the typical cilantro and lime. For texture and a nuanced flavor, I added finely diced celery and scallions.

3 avocadoes
3 tbs. finely diced celery
¼ cup chopped basil
3 scallions, cut into rounds
1 tbs. lemon juice
1 large tomato, diced
Salt and pepper to taste
Guac